Hong Phuc N.
Yelp
Another place in the "too authentic" bin.
So what does it mean for a place to be "too authentic"? It's when the phở broth has too much MSG or the har gao is oily. In other words, it's when the restaurant not only cooks the "food of home", but they also operate as if they are still within their home communities, where stuff is much cheaper and food standards lower than in the U.S. of A. Dim Sum King has this in spades. The taste is very close to what you find in Vietnam (I haven't been to China lol) and that side of the world, but it also tastes exactly like the cheap appetizer dim sum you find in neighborhood open-air restaurants, rather than serious food: Oily, thick skin, cheap meat... You can tell they are operating a dim sum restaurant for the sake of having a restaurant, rather than doing anything gourmet.
That being said... that's not necessarily bad. If you miss the taste of home and value authenticity beyond all else, Dim Sum King might be able to satisfy that craving. It's not bad. It's FINE. Which is sadly the same adjective I can use for the majority of the Bellaire places, which is a shame. It makes these reviews so painful to write since everything's so average, and all the different places just kind of blend into the same flavors after a while. Give me a good or a hilariously crappy place, but perfectly average places just take the joy out of eating.
But enough about Bellaire as a whole, if you are looking for which dishes to try and which to avoid anyway, there are two out of the seven dishes I tried that I did enjoy:
- The ginger beef tripe is the only thing I'd consider "good", though perhaps it's not due to any secret recipe, but rather just simple execution. The tripe is crisp, and the simple ginger sauce is pretty light, yet sufficiently thick and warm. Can you make it yourself? Absolutely. Do they do it well? Yes.
- The wrapped grilled chicken is up next in the "kinda recommended" list. It reeks of cumin but perhaps you haven't had enough cumin in your life. Other than that, I'd call it "good" if it was a little bit less salty. With the amount of sodium it has, I can only call it "above average".
- Most of the traditional dim sum is... well, average. I've already said what they are like: Oily, thick skin, cheap meat, has kind of a mix of simple aromatics inside that gives an illusion of flavor until you realize that it's just oil... This applies to everything from the chives dumpling to the har gao to the tofu rolles to the shiu mai, so I don't feel there's much point differentiating them there.
- The stuffed eggplant is, sadly, below average. It's dunked in oily oyster sauce and by the time it got to me, all the stuffing fell out so calling it "stuffed" was no longer accurate. It's just mushy eggplant with the exact same stuffing as all of the other shrimp-based dim sum on the menu, all injected with an (un)healthy dose of sodium.
TL;DR it's a dim sum place. That exists.