Jane D.
Yelp
Places like Doaba Deli make my heart go pitter patter. It's a hole in the wall with grimy, papered-over windows that serves a completely vegetarian menu for a pittance ($10 for three options as of April 2024). When you enter, you'll find yourself in to a tiny, narrow room with three sticky tables for eating in. Through a doorway to the right, you'll see a steam table with several options on offer and the small, connected kitchen in the back.
On my visit, options on offer included aloo baingan, channa dal and matar paneer. To be completely truthful, I did not love the preparations I tried. The aloo baingan was overly soupy, with eggplants and potatoes cut into huge, unwieldy pieces. Channa dal had been soaked from dried (good!) and boiled with some salt, but had not been noticeably seasoned in any other way. (I have to wonder if the very sweet young man working the counter perhaps misunderstood its readiness level and served the channa dal before it'd been incorporated into a dish! It was from the back of the kitchen, not in the steam table.) The matar paneer was the best of the bunch -- a little too liquidy, but the paneer and peas were in good balance, the dish flavorful.
(Unfortunately, in my mind, I can hear my Pardner's 80-year-old Indian aunt complaining about the food tasting like it was made by a man... and it was. ;)
I did quite enjoy the samosas filled with potatoes and peas, which were somehow held warm, but not dried out and stale. And I'm a total sucker for chaats, so will likely return to sample that section of the menu -- as well as the aloo kulcha, which Alan S., one of my favorite Yelpers whose tastebuds I trust 300%, has praised. (Presumably the tandoor has been fixed since 2018?!)
I also loved the mixture of patrons on my visit: polite, young, Desi college students; grizzled white hippies; Nepalese Americans, etc...
Doaba doesn't serve the best Punjabi / Pakistani / Bangladeshi food to be had in NYC to be certain -- but the friendly, warm, welcoming feel of the place, the low-brow, sticky charm... and maybe the memories it evokes for me of friends, travel, street food... it all twangs my heartstrings.