Dunsmoor
Restaurant · Glassell Park ·
Wood-fired eatery with heritage American eats and wine pairings
Wood-fired eatery with heritage American eats and wine pairings
"Los Angeles can’t seem to get enough of this wood-fired restaurant in Glassell Park from chef Brian Dunsmoor, which channels food history in each dish. On nearly every night open, the candlelit room is abuzz with groups around long tables or tucked into two-tops, sipping Miller High Lifes or glasses of wine. My latest visit was motivated by an immediate need for the massive rib-eye, cooked medium-rare and served with salty, rich marrow; the 32-ounce cut has a dark, well-seasoned crust and meat so tender you barely need a knife. Although the rib-eye is rightly the star, the risotto-esque Carolina gold rice and the soul-warming pork and green chile stew, served with chewy, blistered flour tortillas, are must-orders, too. If reservations for the main dining room are full, head around the corner to the walk-in-only wine bar for an abbreviated menu." - Eater Staff
"The first restaurant I’ve visited in a long time where I truly felt that every single dish was executed perfectly. At Dunsmoor, from the steak to the bluefin tuna toast, the dishes are simple, timeless, and done exceptionally well." - ByAndrea Strong
"Watching former Hatchet Hall chef Brian Dunsmoor sear meats and vegetables over a roaring hearth is a dramatic nightly show in a stunning, high‑ceilinged room with massive windows and candlelight on Eagle Rock Boulevard. Open since 2022, this Northeast LA favorite celebrates lesser-known preservation and fire techniques over live coals (a commitment that began with his rotating pop-up, Fuss and Feathers), and I come for satisfying bluefin tuna toast and Pennsylvania Dutch dumplings with chicken, ham, and beet‑pickled egg. When I sit down, I order Edna’s sour milk cornbread inspired by Edna Lewis, here loaded with Hatch chiles, cheddar, and a lavish amount of butter. The beautifully grilled mushroom‑crusted pork chop with thyme and smoky lard belongs beside Carolina gold rice, while Aunt Emmy’s pork and green chili stew with flour tortillas and cheddar warms the soul on cold nights. Sides deserve real attention—cheddar‑and‑chive potatoes and ham hock–braised greens with pepper vinegar are crowd‑pleasers—and if I’m with a group, a bottle of Tilted Mile’s mineral‑forward sparkling wine from the Central Coast fits the table. Every seat feels ideal (bar dining is especially wonderful) with the hardworking line visible from the room, and the long tables often spark conversations with nearby diners. I try to book just before sunset to watch the west‑facing space shift moods, and if the burger special is available, I order it." - Mona Holmes
"At night I'm struck by how beautiful this dinner-only spot looks; the Spanish Revival dining room glows as regulars pack in for a Southern menu built on fresh California ingredients and a stellar wine list. Book around 6 p.m. to watch the space turn warmly candlelit, then order Edna's sour milk cornbread right away — it takes about 20 minutes and arrives in a cast-iron skillet, the batter folded with white cheddar and hatch chiles and finished with cultured butter and honey — so good the only question is whether to get a second." - Eater Staff
"If the Ghost of Christmas Present—the jolly one with a robe and a wreath in his hair—opened a restaurant, it would probably look like Dunsmoor. Meals at this refined Southern-leaning spot have the warm energy of a celebratory feast, even if you’re popping in for albacore crudo and a glass of wine. Tables are laid out in banquet-style rows, the wood-fire hearth in the open kitchen exudes coziness, and the menu is filled with incredible ember-cooked dishes that Bear Grylls would fantasize about while wandering the brush (grilled trout, mushroom-crusted pork chops, and the cornbread to end all cornbreads). But big rustic dinners aren’t the only area in which Dunsmoor excels. The charming, understated wine bar in the back is perfect for an intimate drink—and happens to serve one of the best burgers in LA, too." - team infatuation