Marc Colbary
Google
Decatur, a city nestled beyond Atlanta’s frenetic pulse, hides a treasure: Fawn, a wine and amaro bar that dazzles like a sapphire in downtown Decatur.
As a seasoned gastronome, I’ve tasted fine wines from Bordeaux to Barolo, but nothing prepared me for Fawn. It’s a culinary cathedral, a sultry sanctuary where James Beard Award-winning chef Terry Koval conducts a symphony of flavors that seduces even the most stoic of epicureans.
The ambiance is moody and intimate, like slipping into a velvet-lined confessional. The 35-seat space, crafted with meticulous care, whispers of European wine bars—think dimly lit haunts in Rome or Barcelona, with cast iron mirrors and exposed brick walls.
The air thrums with an alt-rock playlist, a nod to my beloved Smiths, whose melancholic anthems inspire cocktails so poetic, Caligula would have blushed. The “How Soon Is Now?” martini, laced with amaro and yuzu, is a revelation—a drink that croons to your soul while tickling your taste buds with its herbaceous swagger.
Razor clams, plucked from the pristine waters of Sapelo Island, are the freshest Georgia has ever offered. Served as a crudo, they shimmer with purity, their delicate flesh kissed by a citrusy zephyr and a hint of tuna nduja. Each bite is a love letter to the ocean, showcasing Koval’s obsession with sourcing the finest coastal treasures.
The chef’s tasting menu, a reservation-only affair at the intimate chef’s counter, is worth its weight in truffles, caviar, and unicorn tears. At $195, it’s a multi-course odyssey that showcases Koval’s well-traveled soul. Influences from the spice markets of Marrakech to the fish stalls of Tokyo are woven into every dish. The bluefin tuna bone marrow melts like a lover’s promise, while the warm McIntosh oyster is a masterclass in elegance. The crab ravioli, though still finding its sea legs, sings with potential, its pure-crab filling begging for more indulgence. Koval’s ethos—seasonal, local, and fiercely creative—shines through, with ingredients like wild Georgia shrimp from Brunswick and dry-aged fish that could make a Michelin inspector swoon.
Koval’s story, as captivating as his menu, is a love letter to Decatur. His James Beard win for Best Chef: Southeast in 2023 paid off debts and revitalized the city’s dining scene. His global-local cuisine, with partnerships like Anchored Shrimp Co. and Sapelo Sea Farms, ensures every plate tells a story of Georgia’s coast. A culinary alchemist, Koval transforms milk into divine ricotta. His passion and creativity are palpable, and his dedication to Decatur, a city he and Jenn have called home for over two decades, is the heartbeat of Fawn.
Fawn is a revelation in a world of overhyped bistros and predictable menus. It’s a portal to a world of flavor, where razor clams reign supreme, tasting menus glitter like gold, and Smiths-inspired cocktails serenade the soul. To dine at Fawn is to fall in love—with food, with wine, with the audacity of a chef who dares to dream in flavors. Book the chef’s counter, order a “Panic” cocktail, and let Koval’s coastal elegance sweep you away. Decatur, you’ve outdone yourself.
