Austin B.
Yelp
tl;dr Philly's renowned fried chicken-and-donut company continues to churn out simple, yet high-quality eats from a swank new flagship store
Federal Donuts has been slinging fried chicken and premium cake donuts for over a decade, and its red-and-white chicken logo has since become ubiquitous across Philadelphia. After the demolition of the Sansom block that used to be home to its Rittenhouse outpost, FedNuts relocated to a posh new storefront closer to the park.
The flagship store is modern and clean. Garage door windows and high ceilings feel roomy, and funky incandescent-bulb chandeliers hang from a golden recess. The space sports a red-white-and-blue color palette with a long communal bartop and schoolhouse desk single-seat booths. A brightly lit donut display case greets you immediately upon entering, and a wide window running along the back wall gives you a glimpse into the kitchen. Merch, a red-and-blue neon "Federal Donuts" sign, and custom chicken-donut-and-coffee wallpaper deck one wall, while a colorfully absurdist mural against whitewashed brick is painted onto the other. Modern, offbeat music resonates around the room.
I first visited this new location back in the spring, looking to nab one of the limited-release Pastelito donuts -- spiced cake with cream cheese glaze and a guava ring. The donut was small but surprisingly dense and heavy, sporting a tasty and unmistakably guava cream. More recently, I took advantage of FedNuts' donut deals, running the gamut of all available specialty donuts: Rocky Road (chocolate cake with marshmallow glaze, chocolate chips, and almonds); Blueberry Shortstack (blueberry cake with buttermilk glaze and maple crumbs), Pumpkin Cream (spiced cake with pumpkin glaze, pie crumble, and vanilla cream cheese drizzle); Lemon Ginger (spiced cake with honey ginger glaze and a lemon ring); and Amaretto Affogato (spiced cake with coffee glaze and amaretto drizzle). My favorites were the blueberry (channeling the ideal, blueberry fritter-esque balance of richness and sweetness) and the lemon ginger (packing a ginger-forward, pleasantly tart punch). Conversely, I couldn't stand the rocky road, with its clashing and overly bitter flavor combination. I haven't yet tried the reimagined fried chicken (strips), but soon I hope to see how they match to FedNuts' old bone-in recipe.
The donuts are undoubtedly high quality, yet they still feel slightly pricey against their $3 charge. The expense is partially mitigated by some of FedNuts' donut deals -- half-priced "Donut Happy Hour" after 5PM, or the $5 pick-six Too Good To Go. While they may never attain status as my Philly donut top dog (an honor reserved for Beiler's), FedNuts remains a must-try establishment sure to deliver reliably fresh and vibrant donuts.