Mauro Deffendini
Google
I had been waiting for so long to visit Fradiavolo in Wynwood, as the buzz comes all the way from Torino, its home base. The frenzy had already been whispered to my ears by mio amico italiano and legitimized by the rave reviews that rank it as one of the top 50 pizza spots to eat at. I saved the opportunity to celebrate el compleanno of mia mamma leonessa, and I couldn't have picked a better occasion, we were all transported to our Italian roots.
The place couldn't be cooler, from floor to ceiling, with retro flashbacks on full display thanks to the vintage TVs decorating the walls, as well as the Smeg Coca-Cola fridge storing all the refreshing sodas and cheerful spirits. The Italian writing on the walls adds a romantic flair, capturing quotes from various Italian tragic-comedy novels. Meanwhile, their signature “Rolling Stone” mouth seems as if it’s pouring them all out, and the final twist comes just before entering the restroom, where you’re prompted to “push or not” to the swing of the classic Italian Cuore Matto by Little Tony...
Now let’s mangiare into their specialties.
We started with the trio of bruschettas spread with creamy, milky stracciatella, chunks of tomato, and mortadella with pistachio. What an opening to what came next: the vero Neapolitan pizzas, where the crust, the aroma, the balance of every ingredient all blended together to spark il momento:
MORTAZZA TUA > Burrata, mortadella, pistachio pesto. I have Italian roots and this was fresh, silky burrata that melted in your mouth. The spike was added by the legit pistachio mortadella, and the crunchiness was topped off with pistachio crumbles.
BRITNEY PEARS > This one stole the show, like the singer herself. sweet ,salty, creamy and crunchy. The Gorgonzola and pear are meant for each other, literally let us singing “hit me one more time.”
CHEEK TO CHICKEN > Deep, rich, layered. Finally, I was able to dig into chicken on pizza, giving a protein punch to a carb base food. Maybe thanks to the pulled fire-braised chicken, or its elevated taste from the black garlic topping and basil.
BLACKOUT OXTAIL > With its creamy, fresh fior di latte mozzarella, one-of-a-kind slow-braised oxtail, caramelized onions, and black garlic oil. Another experience you need to taste to understand why it’s so gourmet. (Make sure to order it, it’s a limited edition.)
The pizzas can be ordered with regular dough, multigrain (to keep it healthier), black (made with charcoal, which makes the pizza much lighter), or gluten-free (made from rice and some traces of flour). We opted for black dough for the Blackout Oxtail and the Cheek to Chicken — and maybe that’s what made them so special.
I wish I hadn’t pre-ordered a birthday cake, because their tiramisu, panna cotta, or Nutella pizza might have taken us straight to il paradiso. If they’re as good as the rest of their menu, then that’s the perfect excuse to return and try their Devil Truffle or Quattro Formaggi — their aroma filled the whole space. Or one of their signature salads, which I heard are as edgy as their pizzas, like the tataki with tuna or salmon, soaked in the lemon-based house dressing that’s already famous around town.
They already knew it was my mama’s birthday, but the way they welcomed her — and all of us — felt more like family: full of warmth, joy, and that sincere Italian hospitality that’s hard to come by. My mom kept saying it felt like being back in Italy, and honestly, we all felt the same. Grazie di cuore, da tutti noi > to Milagros and her all-hands culinary assistant, who meticulously kept up with all the orders. Their love for food is reflected in each unique recipe, and the on-the-spot service from Nico ensured we always ate everything warm, straight from the oven. And of course, the masters behind it all, Gaia and Dan, for piloting us into a magical volare state of mind.
As a fun fact, the name “Fra Diavolo” might have been inspired by the Neapolitan bandit nicknamed "Fra Diavolo" — and they honor that name in full, because they truly stole our hearts.
