frunchroom

"If you’ve ever relied on frozen snacks from Trader Joe’s when hosting a party, you can really appreciate it when someone invites you over and bothers to make everything from scratch. And you’ll also probably like Frunchroom, a little restaurant in Portage Park, as much as we do. Because eating here reminds us of hanging out with a friend who enjoys cooking - and also happens to be really good at it. Lots of people rely on old family recipes (the kind written on little cards, back when people still had good handwriting). And the short menu at Frunchroom looks a lot like a random collection of these recipes. But unlike Aunt Eileen’s ambrosia salad that hasn’t changed since 1957, the dishes here are tweaked and updated regularly, keeping things seasonal and interesting. Still, everything falls roughly into the category of “comfort food.” You’ll find matzo ball soup, seared polenta, and “Grandma Terry’s meatballs” - plus a fantastic cheeseburger that we’re pretty sure tastes identical to one we had at a pool party when we were nine years old. There are also fish options like sardines, lox, and pastrami-smoked salmon, and even delicious house-cured meats that make ordering a charcuterie board a necessity. photo credit: Sandy Noto When Frunchroom first opened, it served lunch and dinner, but now it’s mostly just a daytime spot. Except for on Thursdays, when they serve pizza and pasta from 5-9pm. There are a lot of great pizza spots in Chicago, and the pies at Frunchroom aren’t worth making a trip across town - but if you live in the neighborhood, the chewy, thin crust and tasty topping combinations (like fig and honey) are worth looking forward to every week. And the housemade pappardelle will inspire you to buy a pasta maker, before you remember why your stand mixer lives in your closet. While we do like these Thursday night options, we wish they still served their full menu for dinner every night of the week. One thing to note is that, kind of like your friend who underestimated how long a mortar and pestle would take to grind spices, Frunchroom’s small kitchen can take a long time to get food out, especially when things are busy. And the frequently-changing menu is limited, so don’t come here anticipating a lot of options. Do come here anticipating that whatever you decide to eat will taste good. When someone cooks you a meal from scratch, it’s comforting - the fact that another person went to all that effort makes you feel good, and ideally, the food itself will make you feel even better. The good news is that you don’t need to wait for a friend to invite you over (or make a new friend who knows how to cook) to have this experience - you can just go to Frunchroom instead. Food Rundown Charcuterie and Fish There’s a chalkboard menu of different housemade fish and charcuterie options (ranging from smoked salmon to chicken liver mousse) every day, and you should order at least a couple of these when you’re here. Shaved Broccoli and Blueberry Salad Delicious seasonal food can make us sad, because eventually it goes away. So we have bittersweet feelings about this fantastic salad made with broccoli, sweet corn, blueberries, gorgonzola, and balsamic. Just order whatever salad is on the menu here, and be grateful for the time you have together. photo credit: Sandy Noto Seared Polenta This polenta dish looks fussier than the other dishes at Frunchroom (like it was made by your friend who watched too many Top Chef reruns), but it’s great - crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. Hummus with Laffa Get this if it’s available. The hummus is creamy and topped with harissa spiced chickpeas, and while the delicious housemade laffa bread is sometimes a little more charred than it should be, we love it anyway. photo credit: Sandy Noto Matzo Ball Soup This soup has dense matzo balls, a spicy broth, and pieces of smoked chicken. We wish the matzo balls were a little fluffier so they could absorb the soup. photo credit: Sandy Noto Grandma Terry’s Meatballs These are a menu staple. The meatballs are occasionally dry, but they have a great flavor, and the rich tomato sauce they’re served in is delicious. Plus, the seared garlic bread on the side makes us very happy. Pizza Thursday is pizza night (from 5-9pm), and the pizza is pretty good. There are topping combinations like sausage and peppers or fig, panna cheese, and honey, and the crust is thin and chewy, with bubbled edges. Not worth driving across town for, but very nice if you live in the neighborhood. Pappardelle Pasta dishes are also only available during dinner on Thursdays, and the preparations vary. But when you’re craving a big bowl of pasta, this will do the trick. The pappardelle has just the right texture, and whatever it’s in (might be a bolognese, or a bacon cream sauce) will be good. photo credit: Sandy Noto Semolina Gnocchi There’s always a vegetarian pasta option, and it’s often this one. The gnocchi are fluffy, but the mushroom sauce they’re in is heavy and too salty. photo credit: Sandy Noto Cheeseburger This is a straightforward cheeseburger, made with American cheese, pickles, and a toasted sesame bun. Will it run Au Cheval’s out of town? Nope, but it’s still a delicious burger. photo credit: Sandy Noto Smoked Chicken If the smoked chicken is on the menu when you go to Frunchroom, order it. It’s a half chicken in a buttery lemon sauce with roasted garlic. It’s smoky and juicy, and exactly what we want if we’re having a bad day. Pastries There are always some pastries available at the counter, and you should make sure to pick one up. If you come across the sweet corn donuts (topped with a corn frosting and popcorn), get as many as you can." - Adrian Kane

"Popular Portage Park spot Frunchroom has scrapped lunch service in order to focus on dinner and brunch. The deli-focused restaurant was daytime only when it opened last April before adding dinner service in June." - Daniel Gerzina

"Deli-inspired neighborhood spot Frunchroom closed at 4042 N. Milwaukee Avenue just over a year after it opened." - Ashok Selvam

"Frunchroom, the interesting Portage Park spot that specializes in elevated takes on breakfast and lunch deli dishes and is currently on the Eater Chicago Heatmap, started dinner service this week." - Daniel Gerzina

"Mike Sula thinks Frunchroom is a quaint Jewish-Italian deli that 'make[s] you realize how lucky we still are to live in Chicago.' The 27-seat Portage Park café offers a 'surprisingly deep menu' of meats and sandwiches. During breakfast hours, cured fish ooze with salmon oil and are 'just salty enough to be like cured sashimi' while smoked salmon is prepared pastrami style with a crust of pepper and herbs. Lunch yields chicken liver mousse that’s rich, the 'liver bass note harmonizing beautifully with fat and acid and flakes of Maldon salt,' and 'spicy and funky' Andalusian chorizo. Seasonal dishes include charred asparagus with strawberries and blue cheese in a balsamic reduction, which Sula calls 'a riot of flavors, gorgeously balanced.' Sandwiches are full of 'extraordinary takes on familiar standards,' such as a grilled cheese that leaves slicks of butter, raclette, and caramelized onions 'trailing down the chin' and a BLT 'simultaneously airy on brioche and saturated with butter, bacon fat, and basil aioli.' And for the sweet tooth, there’s a selection of rococo doughnuts, pastries, and shakes that 'emerge from the kitchen impossibly thickened.' Frunchroom is still flying under the radar but Sula predicts 'long lines in its future as word gets out about [chef Matt] Saccaro’s original, idiosyncratic vision for a neighborhood deli.'" - Jeffy Mai