s. clark
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Garcia's Mexican Food - A Restaurant Review
Fred Rd. at W. Craig
Bring Me the Enchiladas of Alfredo Garcia
Just how long does one's memory sustain the ability to recall the flavors of that favorite dish, to maintain a mental file folder of wonderful food taste molecules, or conjure up the olfactory archive of food smells experienced? I can answer that albeit in a somewhat indeterminate manner with the following facts.
It has been some 40 years since I visited the little white, jail cell of a cafe called Garcia's. I don't say that to be derogatory, but merely to impart an idea of the cozy nature of this very popular, but small, restaurant with iron bar fortified windows and entry door. I know just where to come now should we suffer a sudden zombie invasion.
Sitting down at a corner table and looking at a menu was sufficient stimulation to cause a seepage of moldy memories to percolate up through many layers of semi-pervious gray matter. I could almost taste the lunch special plate of enchiladas from 4 decades ago that I was about to have again today. I remembered the taste of the rich chili con carne gravy over red corn tortillas that were filled sufficiently, but not over-abundantly with mild yellow cheese. Mildly seasoned enchiladas that I consider good because of what they do not contain (i.e., they don't scream cumin or chili powder) and that are served "hot plate" temp.
My memory did not disappoint and neither did the taste of the food as I remembered it including the rice and frijoles. Was it the best example of Tex-Mex enchiladas to be had in SA as opined in a recent Reader's Choice media survey? Not to me, but not far off the fork. What WAS disappointing, after what seems to be a current wave of Garcia food adulation were the brisket nachos. The overall taste was decent, but the use of semi-desiccated, chopped brisket dregs and nubbins (and I do like burnt ends of which this debris was not) detracted from the quality of the appetizer. It looked as though the remnants of the brisket cutting board had been swept up and deposited atop beans, scant cheese, and crowned with a dollop of guacamole. For my money, another local Tex-Mex restaurant has a superior tasting brisket nacho product. Just not my idea of the ideal brisket nacho.
From that little disappointment, the great renown of heavily touted brisket tacos (the staff even wears printed T-shirts that proclaim such) is now suspect though I did not try them there. Rather, I elected to get two to go for sampling at a later time. The small white sack of two tacos felt suspiciously light (as a reference Bill Miller's are twice as heavy and slightly less expensive) however, though I could see two foil packs within; TBD.
Despite the actual and implied disappointments, I thoroughly enjoyed the crowded little cafe and very inexpensive enchilada lunch (chips and salsa are not free) that validated a near half century old memory and that the temporal equation of "past = present" is a relative term where reference to taste is involved. What a comforting discovery when the substantiated hypothesis pertains to FOOD taste, Maybe not so much however, with tastes best forgotten like kaopectate and paregoric!