Gorin Ramen - Gotham West

"I’m still bummed about the loss of Ivan Ramen’s fast-casual slurp shop at Gotham West. Even in a neighborhood as noodle dense as Hell’s Kitchen, it was a rare institution to offer so many different styles — shio, shoyu, mazamen, tori paitan, and others — in a single venue. But as luck would have it Slurp Shop’s closure made way for Gorin, a spot that specializes in Kitakata ramen. The style, originating from Japan’s Fukushima province, involves a chicken shoyu that, at least here, is cloudier and richer than comparable shoyu broths elsewhere, and a thicker, wavier noodle than most ramen shops ($20). A small pile of chopped raw onions adds sharp complexity. Ramen is a year-round staple for me, but I’d say the luxuriousness of Gorin’s soup, while not quite tonkatsu level, definitely makes this more of a late fall or winter ramen as opposed to a summer one." - Eater Staff

"I’ve been thinking a lot about Ivan Orkin’s noodle shop Ivan Ramen lately, especially as the Long Island-native prepares to replicate his concept across the globe. What I’ve always loved about Ivan is that it’s a great place to get acquainted with the classic ramen styles, even if they all boast an Orkin twist or two. I swung by his counter service spot at Gotham West on Thursday and ordered the shio and shoyu ($14 each), and damn, they were stellar. The shoyu, per usual, was darker than competing versions elsewhere, packing a deeper, richer, saltier, and more caramelized flavor. The shio, in turn, exhibited an obscene amount of smoky bonito goodness, making it uncharacteristically assertive for such a style. And the thin rye noodles, as always, were gorgeously thin and not too filling. I’m stoked to see more Ivan Ramen elsewhere!" - Eater Staff