"I’ve been thinking a lot about Ivan Orkin’s noodle shop Ivan Ramen lately, especially as the Long Island-native prepares to replicate his concept across the globe. What I’ve always loved about Ivan is that it’s a great place to get acquainted with the classic ramen styles, even if they all boast an Orkin twist or two. I swung by his counter service spot at Gotham West on Thursday and ordered the shio and shoyu ($14 each), and damn, they were stellar. The shoyu, per usual, was darker than competing versions elsewhere, packing a deeper, richer, saltier, and more caramelized flavor. The shio, in turn, exhibited an obscene amount of smoky bonito goodness, making it uncharacteristically assertive for such a style. And the thin rye noodles, as always, were gorgeously thin and not too filling. I’m stoked to see more Ivan Ramen elsewhere!" - Eater Staff