Ed U.
Yelp
I remember what a big deal this museum was when it opened exactly twenty years ago in 1997 because nobody had seen a building so wildly out of the norm as Frank Gehry's architectural wonder of sweeping and curving titanium (photo: http://bit.ly/2zaJc3c). I was such a travel virgin that I was probably thinking it unlikely that I would ever see it up close since I had no idea where Bilbao was at the time. We all know the visual impact dramatically changed the city from a generically commercial urban center to a cultural mecca for contemporary art. But then something else happened in the meantime. Gehry started repeating his massive wavy-gravy design in locations closer to my home like in Seattle (Museum of Pop Culture opened in 2000 - review: http://bit.ly/2lkGq5q) and LA (The Walt Disney Concert Hall in 2003).
That's no slight against Frank whose global reputation started with this groundbreaking building, but I have to admit it looked more familiar than dramatic when Jamie W. and I came upon it on our stroll along the Nervion River. I just wanted to have a taste of the Basque country and where else would we start but in Bilbao and at this museum? If you come by way of the riverwalk, you'll take in a couple of key public art pieces like Louise Bourgeois' "Maman", a thirty-foot-high bronze and stainless steel spider that was created as a tribute to motherhood as it holds 26 marble eggs in its sac (photo: http://bit.ly/2yPtmuw), and Anish Kapoor's "Tall Tree and the Eye", a tower of mirrored spheres by the same artist who made the classic Bean in Chicago's Millennium Park (photo: http://bit.ly/2gF0F8W). There was even a guy spray-painted silver in front of the Kapoor piece. No reason, just 'cause.
Once you get around the perimeter of the building, you'll need to walk up a gradually upward sloping set of stairs in order to walk down to the front entrance. But first, take a gander of Jeff Koons' "Puppy", an anachronistic but lovable 43-foot-high topiary sculpture of a West Highland white terrier festooned with marigolds, begonias, and lobelias, that stands guard in front of the museum (photo: http://bit.ly/2zUvM8S). Once you enter the museum itself, you will be gobsmacked by the 150-foot-high atrium from which glass elevators and metal walkways lead to nineteen separate exhibition spaces (photo:http://bit.ly/2zQTFhr). Jenny Holzer's electronic LED sign, "Installation for Bilbao" in constant vertical motion (photo: http://bit.ly/2lhZuBe), and Richard Serra's massive sculptural maze of steel, "The Matter of Time" (photo: http://bit.ly/2yU2uJr) impress with their scale if not their respective visions.
Mark Rothko's "Unititled" (1952) may be the oldest piece on display (photo: http://bit.ly/2gOPePN), but you can see large pieces by de Kooning, Picasso, Hockney, and a cool Warhol panorama called "150 Multicolored Marilyns" (photo: http://bit.ly/2zHeL10). There is also another colorful Jeff Koons piece out on the terrace called appropriately "Tulips" (photo: http://bit.ly/2hdGorB), but truth be told, the exhibits inside were on the lackluster side compared to the architecture of the building. Admission is a reasonable 13€, and it stays open until 8PM (closed on Mondays). If you are in need of caffeine, you may want to walk out and take advantage of the outdoor café across the plaza, which during our visit, featured a rockabilly-style musical duo of marginal talent as we sipped our café con leches (photo: http://bit.ly/2xqTYhA). Is it worth the trip? For the building itself and the public art, absolutely. For the art inside, well...