Robin M.
Yelp
Picture yourself in a serene Japanese interior, quietly punctuated by the upright figures of Chef Kenji Horikawa and his wife and co-owner Coco, who on our last visit was exquisite in her native Tokyo's traditional attire. There is no other staff. There are only several tables and a small bar, providing an intimate experience for the duration of the meal.
Drinks include premium sake as well as premium shochu (both barley and sweet potato varietals). If it is summer and there is a bottle of the chilled Sasaori, Hokkaido Otokoyama's limited-edition seasonal sake, then snag it! It's an exquisite accompaniment to sushi, unparalleled in my experience! Coco maintains a well-considered cellar and is an expert on the options. The daughter of a highly regarded author of a book on sake, she is a licensed sake sommelier in her own right.
Once you've ordered drinks, you can fully relax, for the food itself is Omakase, meaning Chef's choice.
This will be a masterfully curated meal of gourmet sushi, called Edomae sushi (primarily Nigiri) which involves techniques that hearken back to Japan's Edo period. You need to call for a reservation at least three days in advance and dress thoughtfully, foregoing perfume or cologne. Heavy scents obscure the unique flavors of the different fish, the enhancement of which is one of the original aims of Edomae sushi.
Entering this space with a sense of adventure, you'll notice the absence of chopsticks and the presence of a laminated card which advises how best to eat sushi. You'll use your fingers because they give you the best control. You'll dip the sushi in its sauce fish-side down to preclude the greedy rice from absorbing too much and overwhelming the fish. You'll also place the sushi on your taste buds fish-side down to intensify the impact.
The types of fish served depend on what is available to be flown in fresh from Japan or in some cases Canada or Scotland. In late February you might get to eat firefly squid, the bioluminescent creature that heralds spring in Japan. At any given season, the variety will be astounding. Even during Covid, when Coco regretted to inform us that fish options were limited, Kenji still presented 23 distinct fish for one take-out order!
For all that the fish might've arrived this very day, some fish will have come ahead of time to be treated to the slowest of the techniques of which Kenji is a master. A fish will be wrapped in kelp for days, its bones roasted to yield a special sauce or salt. An octopus will be massaged by hand to the point of astounding tenderness. Kenji will meticulously remove the liver of a fish and create a marvel that appears as a tiny dollop on top of its flesh. Other dollops might be derived from red or green chili or an herb such as shiso. (The sushi is beautiful to the eye as well as delicious on the palette!)
Kenji makes choices all the time that set his food apart. Monkfish pâté, for example, is typically sent to restaurants pre-made and wrapped in plastic, ready to be sliced. To Kenji and Coco it tastes like plastic, therefore they eschew it in favor of fresh monkfish from which Kenji himself creates the pâté. You might see a piece of sushi topped by red flesh and think you have spotted the ubiquitous salmon (often farmed), but very likely it is ocean trout, which Kenji and Coco prefer for its red color that is natural, not dyed, and for its naturally lean meat.
You will learn such details because every platter of sushi comes with introductions. Coco tells you the Japanese and English names of the fish as well as their origins and how they were prepared. Like her husband, she is passionate about the details. Her smile radiates genuinely from behind her mask as she speaks.
She'll advise you with regard to sauces as well. If a piece of sushi is sprinkled with one of Kenji's hand-crafted salts (perhaps black kelp or cherry blossom) you will want to savor it as is, "No sauce!" Other pieces will benefit from a dip in one of Kenji's specially prepared sauces--house-made soy, ponzu, miso, and more--or if it is the amazing sea urchin from Hokkaido, too delicate to invert, then you may lightly brush it with a piece of pickled ginger that has itself been dipped in soy sauce (hide the evidence though and don't do this for any other sushi, Coco warns playfully!)
This is a phenomenal fine dining experience and the price is reflective of that but absolutely worth it.
In 2024 Hanazen marked 20 years. Based on photos and details from older reviews, they've evolved since the early days, honing their vision and streamlining what is offered. We stumbled onto them eight years ago and have been regulars ever since, always leaving in a state of bliss. Highly recommend!
