Joseph H.
Google
28/10/2025
£55 set menu + drinks & extras
Hausu is cool, no doubt about it. Converted ultimately from the old waiting room at (the Grade-II listed) Peckham Rye station, it’s all dangly lights and dark corners. It markets itself as a ‘listening bar’ as much as a restaurant and makes a big song (some groovy old school soul-funk deep cut you’ve never heard of) and dance about its sound system; it’s got huge pinewood speakers on bespoke, designated shelves in every room and the fireplace now serves as a wine rack. Any kind of fixed or definitive cuisine other than “modern” is conspicuous in its absence from all its own descriptions but the menu references “Tokyo turnips” and miso confit garlic and the place is named after a 1970s Japanese horror film. Of course.
But is there substance to the style? It’s kinda like you’ve got a mate who’s a good cook and has invited you round as a guinea pig to test her concoctions on. And she’s got a housemate who’s a DJ - a proper one, who only plays vinyl - who’ll be there too. And there might be some kind of poetry reading or ukulele jam sesh after you’ve all eaten from which you’d need to hastily excuse yourself. The sort of mate you’d make sure you dropped into conversation, particularly when speaking to someone a bit younger or involved in the arts, but not necessarily the sort of mate you’d want to be hanging out with day-in, day-out - and particularly not at age 36 with a baby on the way.
Because not all of those concoctions, I’m afraid to say, quite come off. Nor did they, with the benefit of hindsight, feel particularly coherent. The menu sounded fantastic in advance and I was really looking forward to getting stuck in, but in the moment at times it had us overintellectualising, attempting to guess at the specific ingredients and almost trying to justify the decision-making behind them without simply reacting to them, organically and with feeling. Those Tokyo turnips were a case in point. As a larger group we had the set menu and so three plates turned up; while they prompted discussion about the possible inclusion of tahini or the interesting choice of vegetable, at least one of those plates went back unfinished.
With them were slices of delica pumpkin, beautifully cooked and delicious, but the blue cheese and hot honey sauce slightly overwhelmed its natural flavours, and I think this is when nascent organic feelings - of disappointment - did begin to arise. (In fairness, maybe I was just annoyed I hadn’t got an extra prawn toast like the others - make sure you don’t make the same mistake if you go.) It had been a really good start, with some of the best bread and butter I think I’ve ever eaten (from local heroes Toad, who also supply Café Mondo in the area - no apologies for the plug); the pickles (daikon and sweet red pepper) and olives they came with whetted the appetite just fine.
A choice cut of sliced sirloin and entire plaice to share for mains looked impressive - although Elle said the fish looked like it had been dragged out of swamp - but were inconsistent in quality and flavour. The steak in particular was a bit like a punnet of half-mouldy strawberries - you’d have a really good bite but the next would be too tough or all fat, leaving you chasing perfection until all that was left to do was gnaw uncivilisedly on the bone. I enjoyed the fish but like the turnips it went back unfinished - nice but sort of inoffensive (see too the veggie alternative mushroom risotto, which felt quite low effort in comparison, the potatoes, the cocktails I could go on… although the toasted rice spiced ice cream afterwards was banging). As a theme this was surprising given the ambition of the menu; I’d almost have preferred a few big misses along with a few more big hits.
In the end I went home (before I could suggest we remove the service charge for the miserable waitress who responded “what about it?” when asked about a missing beer) with an overall sense of untapped potential. It’s a great space and I loved the concept and intent but was it matched by the food? I don't think so.