Hoa Phuong

"What Hoa Phuong lacks in space, it makes up for in the flavour of its supreme bún bò huế. The cash-only Elephant and Castle restaurant is more or less takeaway-only, save for some limited counter space and a Sylvanian Families-sized table. But you’ll rarely find this space empty given the food coming out of the kitchen. Everything is made-to-order, from the electrifying broth of the aforementioned bún bò huế to sizzling lemongrass-marinated pork, and after one visit you’ll get why everyone patiently waits, cash in hand." - jake missing

"90% takeaway and 10% restaurant—four fold-out chairs, a small table, and a counter are doing some heavy lifting at Hoa Phuong. But the flavours coming out of the kitchen of this tiny Vietnamese spot speak for themselves. Every order—be it bún salads with sizzling lemongrass-infused meats or slurping portions of bún bò huế—is taken, prepared, and cooked by Hoa Phuong’s sole owner and chef. Patience is of the utmost importance in this little cash-only space and, once you taste that bún bò huế, you’ll understand why the people quietly waiting inside are so reverential." - jake missing, sinead cranna

"We tried and failed to go to Hoa Phuong a few times before finally catching it open. The box-sized, cash-only Vietnamese spot in Elephant and Castle mixes mystique and wind-up merchantry when it comes to its opening times (though utter that at your peril). But after our first successful visit—where the smell of broth bubbling and the steady thud of vegetables being chopped soundtracked our scrolling thumbs and excited breathing—we confirmed it was worth the wait. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch This 70s-feeling takeaway space, all beige tiles and pixelated photos of dishes stuck to the wall, is very much the domain of Hoa Phuong’s sole owner and chef. Everything is made to order and with niceties, good manners, and some luck on your side she will allow you to eat in one of the four seats (despite a canny COVID-era sign in the door saying otherwise). She is a proprietor who has subservient customers—students, locals, broth fanatics—waiting, cash in hand and playing by her rules for very good reason. The bún bò huế is particularly good—a lurid shrimp broth that looks positively volcanic and tastes that way too. There’s a whack of lemongrass attached to the sizzling pieces of grilled pieces of pork ready to be mixed with bún. Everything is carefully flavoured. So much so that when it comes to getting cash, you might want to consider getting a wad out. Hoa Phuong isn't somewhere to take for granted. Food Rundown photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Bún Bò Huế Hoa Phuong’s noodle soups are what have had us hanging around outside with the shutters closed, and the bún bò huế is a must. Flecks of lemongrass, garlic, ginger, and chilli are all there, on the eye and electrifying your tongue, while cuts of beef are chewy and fatty alongside perfect slices of chả bò. The inclusion of fried onions in the broth is unfamiliar, but welcome all the same. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Summer Rolls Prawn, tofu, and grilled pork are on offer and while these aren’t the most herbaceous summer rolls we’ve ever eaten, they are chunkily made and the nước chấm is a delight. Grilled pork, zinging with ginger and lemongrass, is particularly good. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Grilled Pork Bún With Spring Rolls Off-menu freestyles may seem foolhardy at Hoa Phuong, but throwing a couple of spring rolls on top of a bún box is always a good idea in our humble opinion. Spring rolls are misshapen and comforting like all the best homemade food. The grilled pork, mixed together with rice noodles (not vermicelli), pickled vegetables, ground peanuts, and nước chấm, makes for a fresh and invigorating noodle salad. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Bánh Mì What these bánh mì lack in finesse, they try to make up for in size. Though lacking in zinging herbs or smears of pâté, there’s a commitment to piles of pickled vegetables and plenty of grilled meat." - Jake Missing

"Mythic diaspora restaurant cliche bingo. Unassuming exterior? Check. One woman cooking? Check. A few stools. Check. Small blackboard menu and odd opening hours? Double check. The biggest check is that Thewner Phuong’s bun bo hue puts almost everyone else’s to shame, a deep fiery broth with a marine funk from fermented shrimp past, it’s herbal, citrus, spicy, umami all in harmony, with well cooked beef meat and Hue sausage. Chilli oil status: Ask for more shrimp paste." - Jonathan Nunn

"Hoa Phuong on the upper end of Walworth Road is one that adheres to all the cliches about mythic diaspora restaurants. Unassuming exterior? Check. One old aunty cooking? Check. Small blackboard menu and odd opening hours? Double check. But owner Phuong’s bun bo hue here puts almost everyone else’s to shame, a deep fiery broth with a marine funk from fermented shrimp paste, herbal, citrus, spicy, umami all in harmony, with well cooked beef meat and Hue sausage. The pork on rice or in summer rolls is done well here, with aggressive caramelisation and crusted with thinly chopped lemongrass, and the beef with pickled vegetable is an exceptional stir fry, but after one bowl of bun bo hue, the only temptation is to order another." - Jennifer Trak