At this elegant Kreuzberg gem, chef Sebastian Frank reimagines Austrian classics with a fresh, vegetable-focused twist, all in a charming canal-side setting.
"Berlin’s most renowned Austrian restaurant is one of the old-timers along Kreuzberg’s restaurant-strewn Landwehr Canal: It first opened in 2005, though didn’t gain its first Michelin star until Austrian chef Sebastian Frank joined in 2010; it didn't get its second Michelin star until 2015, when it was also awarded a green Michelin star for sustainability. Inside it’s an appealing mix of old and contemporary, with original wood wall panels, gorgeous murals from Berlin artist Jim Avignon, and an open kitchen enclosed in floor-to-ceiling glass. Outside there’s a charming vine-covered patio where guests can dine in the summer. There’s a definite buzz here. Don’t go to Horváth expecting wiener schnitzel. The Austrian cuisine here is vegetable-focused and totally modern, with some decadent flourishes. Menus come in six- or eight-course options; there’s no à la carte. The steamed semolina dumpling is paired with an iced “smoothie” of peas, parsley, zucchini cress, and apple. The butter bread, composed of steamed malt bread with black beer and chocolate, whitefish caviar, cold potato cream, and garlic, is sprayed with a mist of juniper scent. Frank’s signature dish, which you shouldn’t miss, is celeriac baked in a salt crust and left to “ripen” for 12 months. Save room for the desserts, which are both imaginative and delicious, especially the eggplant steamed with mint and sugar and served with parsley sorbet." - Liz Humphreys
"The location on the Landwehrkanal in lively Kreuzberg, among other restaurants and shops, is indeed special and a draw in itself. Out front is a lovely terrace shielded from the street by a fence covered in plants. Inside, a blend of old and new makes for an attractive setting: old wooden panelling meets chic modern design – the mural by Jim Avignon is a focal point, as is the glass-fronted kitchen. Here, Sebastian Frank conjures up dishes rooted in the culinary traditions of his Austrian homeland with plenty of creativity and an emphasis on sustainability. He uses high-quality ingredients – sourced from the Berlin-Brandenburg region where possible – to produce pared-down dishes, often giving pride of place to vegetables. The almost unspectacular manner in which he sometimes does this is perhaps what makes it so remarkable. With great skill, he finds a way to incorporate his favourite flavours, caraway and celery, again and again. Diners can also look forward to friendly, competent service and interesting wine recommendations." - Michelin Inspector
"A meal at Horvath will likely be one of the most expensive of your trip, but if you’re looking for a high-end, unique meal, you can’t do better than this historic, wood-paneled, and light-filled spot. The menu is a modern take on traditional Austrian regional dishes, like venison schnitzel covered in coffee-herb sauce, and a traditional pate made from mushroom, not liver. The non-alcoholic drinks are particularly special - with blends of vegetables, oils, and tea reductions that we’d even recommend ordering in addition to the wine pairings." - Barbara Woolsey
Stephen Worgan
sori kim
Marco Dingler
Meri Williams
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Louwrens van der Zee
Charlotte Martin
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