Jeffery A.
Yelp
What is it about me that treasures the small eatery over larger more well know establishments? Is it my proletarian nature? My aw-shucks farm boy upbringing? Am I so desensitized by the t.v. chef driven, Michelin star rated, (what I feel) less value for your money places? Are my tastebuds deminished? Dios mio!!!
If you are ever in or near Osaka, Toyo is a place you must visit.
Must!
(You don't have to read anymore if you don't wanna).
Tachinomiya (to stand and drink) bars flourish throughout Japan. The fact that these places generally have a limited menu, and serve low budget sake and beer is a plus for me. What they lack in serenity, and vogue, they make up for in value and fun.
Toyo is not just a tachinomiya, it's a man. A laughing, hairy armed, often smiling, sometimes barking man. With a kitchen towel wrapped around his thick neck, like a boxer, he a maestro of kuidaore..."to eat & drink until you drop".
There are some eight to ten steel top tables here. These fill up promptly by 3:35, as he opens up at 3:30.
Business men, still dressed in their black suits along side skaters and hip-hop wannabes gather around. Drinks are poured, jokes told, and as the noise level reaches a fever pitch, above it all you hear Toyo-san barking out orders.
You retrieve your own drinks from a sliding top icebox. 500 milliliter bottles of Asahi and boxed sake (say it for me! Sah-Kay! Not Sah-Key! Thus ends the Japanese lesson!) are the most selected. There are possibly others, but I didn't notice. Bottle opener and clean, cold towel are on each table.
Service staff flutter about taking orders, delivering food, dispensing information. The only menu I noticed was at the small counter/cooking area where Toyo works.
I had:
Okinawa Sea-grapes: tiny emerald balls of seaweed that pop with a briny-brackish flavor. These can be addictive and add greatly to any fish dish.
Hamo (Daggertooth Pike Eel): a favorite for people of Kansai. The white meat fish deboned and boiled in dashi is served with umeboshi paste and pairs well with the sea grapes.
Maguro: cooked over a charcoalgrill, seared by blow torch, sweet and juicy, in ponzu and riddled with green onion. You'll want more.
Toro: The fatty belly meat of the maguro served sashimi style. The prize of the raw fish consuming world.
All in, fourth bucks and change, that includes the beer.
I watch as Toyo-san uses a blow torch to sear the top of a batch of maguro, a cigarette dangling from his lips. Later he comes to our table and greets us. After we pay-up, he takes the time to personally come and thank us, and invite us back.
He is a man of the people, and in this respect, we are one.
Mahalo Toyo-san!!
Aloha