Jando S.
Yelp
There are two things that stand out to me right away about Jiu Fu Cafe:
1) They are a pure Teochew (#1) cuisine specialty spot. The H-Town Teochew scene is mainly comprised of faux-Vietnamese and Chinese eateries that eventually blend into the Cantonese realm. None of them are particularly strong in either side. The fact they're regionally specific gives Houston Chinatown a bit of an edge over most Chinese enclaves in the country / world. Essentially, this is a kind of place that should be protected at all costs.
2) The name, JIu Fu Cafe, has nothing to do with 明记 (Ming Ji) / 明記 (Ming Kee). Rarely do Chinese restaurant names match up with their chosen English names, but this is an even more unique scenario where the English name would suggest that it's still another Chinese name entirely.
I've been critical of Houston's Chinatown scene for quite some time now but Jiu Fu Cafe represents so much of what I think H-Town has gotten right. This is not fancy cuisine by any stretch, but compared to what's broadly available, it's very exciting. It is an establishment that caters to the Chinese palate and is busy practically each night.
The seating situation here is extremely cramped but somehow still works with medium sized groups and small parties alike. It is BYOB, which adds an extra layer of fun to the experience and parking is shared with the rest of the strip mall and H-Mart. They have a private room from their recent renovation but I don't think it fits more than 10 folks at a time.
Their oyster pancake is the stuff of dreams. It reminds me of the Taiwanese / Minnan style oyster pancake (蚵仔煎) but almost in pajun like fashion with a pizza slice feel. Their sweet potato cakes are a common dessert dish in China, but they do a great job with the crispy exterior. and slight hint of sweetness. While I don't think the marined duck (卤水鸭) will be everyone's cup of tea, it is authentically prepared and has pretty good flavor overall.
Seafood congee (海鮮粥) is going to be a winner with the rich seafood'y flavor despite all the shells they leave in the bowl. The salt and pepper calamari and fish slices (椒鹽魷魚魚片) is also good, despite being very common. Their marinated organ meats with tofu and egg is an excellent starter, as is their tofu skin stuffed medallions, which are filled with pork meat and chestnuts. The raw marinated crab is one of the most authentic dishes in the cuisine and it's available here on a first come first serve basis. For this dish, I'd call and reserve it ahead of time to ensure availability.
Lastly, the service here is good, despite the constant chaos of their dinner service. The ladies that work here can usually converse in a number of Chinese dialects (Mandarin, Cantonese, Teochew, and Toisanese) and a resilient bunch even when the waits are bad. This has become one of my most coveted spots in the neighborhood and I hope all who are curious for this cuisine give them a try and bring lots of friends to feast with them.
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(#1) 潮州. Chaozhou for the laymen. Chiu Chow for the ABCantos. Trieu Chau for the Tieng Viet peeps.