Taylor B.
Yelp
Date: 3/23/23
Food: 5/5
Ambiance: 5/5
Service: 6/5
Management: 6/5
TL;DR: Jory amazed us. As we sat at the table in between courses, all we could talk about is what we would get for breakfast the following day. Bravo!! Forbes, give this establishment its final star already!
As a lifelong Oregonian, I have learned to be skeptical of so-called "fine dining" establishments in my state, most of which leave me disappointed not only by their lackluster atmosphere but also by their sub-par, chain-style "fancy food". Because of that, visiting Jory was like stepping into another world.
We were greeted by our waiter, Jeremy, who possessed exceptional personal attentiveness and professional attention to detail. He took care of us throughout the night, helping us create a custom zero-proof cocktail and make sense of the mind-numbingly mouthwatering menu. He was clearly well-trained in dining etiquette yet not afraid to crack a joke. Our attendant was equally fabulous---friendly without being overbearing, yet perfectly solicitous. A small touch I appreciated from him: he wore gloves when bussing tables but not when delivering silverware/refilling glasses. The germaphobe in me rejoiced! I would give this waitstaff team all the stars in the world if I could. Their service far surpassed the level of treatment I have received at Guy Savoy.
The atmosphere was typical of an Oregon restaurant, but only if Oregon restaurants went to charm school. Earthy tones complemented white tablecloths and flickering candles, while massive picture windows looked out upon the sweeping Willamette valley. Live jazz piano drifted in from the bar; modern artwork added to the intimate, almost intellectual atmosphere. This isn't a restaurant to eat food. This is a place to Dine.
So then, let's talk about that food, shall we? We began with an amuse-bouche. I was so tickled to find a complimentary opening bite at an Oregon restaurant that I could've eaten cardboard and been content. But this wasn't cardboard--it was a delicious toast topped with shrimp salad and a bit of melted cheese. Yes, cheese and seafood! A faux pas? No; rather, an expression of the chef's creativity and ability to artistically and adeptly break culinary rules.
The brioche was cooked to perfection--as in, not quite through so that it was flaky and a little "gooey" inside. Served hot, it was well-complemented by the pot of whipped salted butter.
For our first course, we ordered the goat cheese tart and the mussels in butternut broth with house-made venison sausage. I'm a venison-a-phobe and not a particular fan of shellfish in general, but this dish made everything work together in a magnificent symphony. (The chili focaccia and butternut broth probably helped with that!) The goat cheese tart was exquisite, with a perfectly crumbly shortbread crust and warm, oozing goat cheese filling. The only thing I was missing was a dollop of chutney or a more assertive dressing for the greens to help offset the intense richness of the dish.
Our entrees were the Oregon albacore and Australian Wagyu, both exceptional in their own right. My albacore was slightly "fishy" as opposed to its milder tuna cousins, but its piquant chili crust and a tart and zesty lemon aioli, along with pickled gourmet mushrooms, black rice risotto, and cashew cream, were enough to offset the assertive taste of the sea. On the other hand, the Wagyu was cooked to rare perfection and served alongside a revolutionary black trumpet mushroom purée, slightly undercooked brussels sprouts (you're better than this, Jory!) and fondant potatoes to die for. The demi-glacé sauce was perfection, making the truffle butter unnecessary and a bit cloying, but, with food this delicious, we felt blasphemous for even thinking that it could be improved upon.
Dessert, however, left no room for improvement. Though I'm not a fan of chocolate, I nearly died over their chocolate cake. Served hot with chocolate feuilletie, white chocolate cream, and brandied cherry sauce, it proved that anything can be delicious in the hands of a master chef. Topped with a scoop of house-churned honey thyme ice cream, the apple crisp was also delicious.
For a special treat, the management sent a plate of chocolate-covered strawberries and truffles in honor of our celebratory trip. The truffles were extraordinary--one an elevated ivory chocolate riff on a kit-kat, the other sea-salted dark chocolate caramel...both creamy and exquisite, nestled upon a bed of chocolate-covered puffed rice bits)
Jory, you get all the stars in the world.