Jr & Son
Bar · Williamsburg ·
Spicy chicken parm, rainbow cookie cake, lively tiramisu
Spicy chicken parm, rainbow cookie cake, lively tiramisu
"A reborn Brooklyn haunt in Williamsburg, the space started as Italian supper club Charlie’s in the 1930s, then became the JR and Son dive bar in the 1970s, and now is a polished Italian American restaurant and bar that still keeps its worn-in character with dim lighting and dark wood walls. Chef Patricia Vega (formerly of Thai Diner) adds intriguing flavor depths to standard red sauce dishes. The chicken Parm ($35) is a star — a giant breaded chicken, its little leg bone exposed like a handle, smothered with Calabrian chile-spiced tomato sauce, melted mozzarella, and ample sesame seeds. Order the bread service ($8): cheesy garlic bread flecked with chile peppers for a slight spice, and green olive-topped focaccia that’s springy and fresh. It’s an Italian restaurant, so get one of the pasta dishes — in particular, the artichoke triangoli ($26), an oval plate with three giant artichoke-stuffed triangles, with scattered basil, pine nuts, and sundried tomato pasta. Pastry chef Amanda Perdomo turns the iconic rainbow cookie into a luxurious and beautiful slice of cake ($15) made with coconut sponge cake and layers of raspberry jam and dark chocolate ganache; it’s completely vegan. Snag one of the cozy booths to study the walls crammed with old photos and vintage sports memorabilia (go Mets)." - Nadia Chaudhury
"One thing I loved here was the confident undercurrent of Calabrian chiles, whose warmth and fruity flavor add surprise to familiar dishes like the chicken Parm. They shine even more in the crab salad ($18), hefty chunks of lump crab bound with just enough lemon aioli and finished with a bright red drizzle of Calabrian chile oil. Arriving on a bed of ice, it’s perfectly chilled, while the chile oil delivers a bolt of bright heat; the crackers hold up nicely, and bread service lets you swipe some crab onto the olive focaccia, too." - Nick Mancall-Bitel
"Restaurant revivals just keep coming. Fedora recently came back from a five year hiatus, and now the team that revamped Kellogg’s Diner is bringing back Jr & Sons in Greenpoint. They’re keeping the spirit of the old-school Italian spot with the menu—chicken parm-lovers have a new spot to check out. The pastry chef behind Kellogg’s excellent desserts is also in charge of the sweets here, and the rainbow cookie riff looks extremely promising." - will hartman, willa moore, molly fitzpatrick, sonal shah, bryan kim
"Velvet curtains, leather booths, framed Mets memorabilia and the intense need for a martini slap you in the face as you walk into JR & Son in Williamsburg. It could all feel gimmicky, until you realize most of the decor dates back to the restaurant’s dive bar days in the 1970s. Before that it was an Italian social club, and now it’s in its third life, under the Kellogg’s Diner team. The food plays second fiddle to the space, but it puts on a very fun show. Think chicken parm smothered in a calabrian chili-spiked tomato sauce, and a rainbow cookie layer cake with a heavy sprinkle of Maldon salt. Dessert is the superior nightcap here, though if you are interested in a liquid nightcap (or three), it’s worth noting this place is open until 2am." - will hartman, willa moore, molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, sonal shah
"A reanimation of a former Williamsburg dive bar by Nico Arze and Louis Skibar, alongside Michelle Lobo, this project is described as an aria of chicken parm (theirs spicy) with checkered floors and framed photographs; the kitchen is led by Patricia Vega, who brings influences from time at Thai Diner, and desserts by pastry chef Amanda Perdomo — such as an Italian rainbow cookie cake — are often vegan, signaling how red sauce traditions are being reinterpreted for 2025." - Joshua David Stein