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"A reborn Brooklyn haunt in Williamsburg, the space started as Italian supper club Charlie’s in the 1930s, then became the JR and Son dive bar in the 1970s, and now is a polished Italian American restaurant and bar that still keeps its worn-in character with dim lighting and dark wood walls. Chef Patricia Vega (formerly of Thai Diner) adds intriguing flavor depths to standard red sauce dishes. The chicken Parm ($35) is a star — a giant breaded chicken, its little leg bone exposed like a handle, smothered with Calabrian chile-spiced tomato sauce, melted mozzarella, and ample sesame seeds. Order the bread service ($8): cheesy garlic bread flecked with chile peppers for a slight spice, and green olive-topped focaccia that’s springy and fresh. It’s an Italian restaurant, so get one of the pasta dishes — in particular, the artichoke triangoli ($26), an oval plate with three giant artichoke-stuffed triangles, with scattered basil, pine nuts, and sundried tomato pasta. Pastry chef Amanda Perdomo turns the iconic rainbow cookie into a luxurious and beautiful slice of cake ($15) made with coconut sponge cake and layers of raspberry jam and dark chocolate ganache; it’s completely vegan. Snag one of the cozy booths to study the walls crammed with old photos and vintage sports memorabilia (go Mets)." - Nadia Chaudhury