Valery C.
Yelp
** 4.5 stars **
With a budget under $200, having a fine sushi omakase in NYC has never been easier. Having truly fantastic sushi, now, not so much. In place after place, imperfections, often slight, sometimes not, detract from otherwise good sushi places that respect the craft, serve bracingly fresh fish, and display capable knife skills. And yet, I find myself recalling specific omakase because of fish that was consistently a hair too cold or cut too big, or shari served too warm or under-seasoned or off texture, or flavors too aggressive or too mild. Not great motivators to return, and rightly or not, I've not returned to very many.
Instead, I aim to try most omakase under $200, so dining at Juku was expected. Opened in early December, this restaurant in Manhattan's Chinatown comes with promising pedigree, headed by Kazuo Yoshida, formerly of Williamsburg's 1 or 8. The first floor features a beverage bar and small izakaya dining room, while the upstairs loft space holds only the 12-seat sushi bar.
Yoshida-san heads the omakase, serving the first six seats, while Kei Sasaki serves the other half. Right away, their sartorial style sets the vibe. Dressed in stylish navy short-sleeve buttoned shirts with mandarin collars and polka dots, topped off by baseball caps embroidered with the number "19" (which Juku can be translated to in Japanese), traditional and contemporary co-mingle comfortably.
With seatings at two hour intervals at 6 PM, 8 PM, and 10 PM, timeliness is essential. Reservations are a must, and only even number parties can book (get that extra person!). The official omakase choices are $80 for 12 pieces or $120 for 15 pieces plus handroll. As with most omakase places, customizing is possible within the allotted time, and adjustments to cost. For now, this is a sushi bar, with sashimi and cooked dishes not making the cut.
My first experience was early December, barely a week after opening. With few expectations, I walked away with a follow-up visit in mind. It was my first near flawless sushi experience in a long time, starring a memorably flavorful shari. The sushi pieces are markedly smaller than most, the only aspect I'd prefer differently, but one I can overlook.
Three additional visits confirm the skill of Juku's omakase. Whether served by Yoshida-san or Sasaki-san, the sushi is consistently well-made, with almost none of the temperature or seasoning excursions that have thrown off other meals. Fish selection is good, if fairly standard for NYC now, but there are always a few less common or seasonal choices. Their signature chopped horse mackerel and scallion, scented with shiso, is a nice mid-way piece. They have some interesting seasonings on hand, including ghost pepper salt, and sear a few pieces to great effect, aburi style. The tamago is quite good. And still, for me, at every visit, the delicious shari steals the show.
Enjoy the omakase with a limited but decent beverage selection: sake, wines, a craft and Sapporo beer on tap, some bottled beers, liquor, and a good cocktail menu often using Asian ingredients. The easy-drinking Big Wet's Sugoiii Tiki rum-based cocktail comes in an irresistible happy Buddha container, topped with a cowboy hat and a steel straw emerging from his belly.
Yoshida-san and Sasaki-san are friendly and curious, and relatively proficient in English. The 2-hour slots limit discussion, but there is enough opportunity to chat. Service is attentive and unobtrusive.
19 at Juku is an excellent sushi omakase experience, one well-worth having, and which I'll be heading back to again.