Craig K.
Yelp
Before reading my review, please check the review of Kim T. from Fort Lauderdale who succinctly summarizes all of the factual information one should know before taking a seat at Kaiseki Furukawa. Kaiseki is all about the seasons and regions. Minnesota does not have another Kaiseki restaurant. This is an intimate setting, many servers, few guests. This is a multi course meal, served on much of the proprietor's own dinnerware; each piece has some familial history and in some cases is hundreds of years old. Eating here is all about respecting historical and ethnic cuisine, enveloping yourself in heritage and culture, and imbibing earthly riches of bountiful harvest, cultivating the traditions of pure forms and rhythm of cuisine through taste and texture....
Yada yada.
I'm honestly a little concerned about posting a review of this place now, because there's only two other reviews and I want someone smarter to eat here before it's fully judged. I've spent more than a month in Japan, but still feel wholly under qualified to understand what the heck this place is.
Let me speak a little more pragmatically about KF.
Firstly, you must pay ahead. This is clearly an attempt to ensure you're aware of the stunning cost of your meal beforehand, sans liquids.
You start your meal (a little confusingly) entering what appears to be another Japanese restaurant entirely. (Kado No Mise, BTW, looks fantastic and in some ways, I wish we'd just stayed put.) You walk behind the host station and up an otherwise unremarkable stairwell to get there.
From there, you are directed to the bar, with a nice selection of Japanese whiskey. I recognized many of the bottles from grocery stores and gas stations in Japan. Tough to see $18 for an ounce of gas station whiskey, but someone had to import it.
When your table is ready, you're taken to another room. Your anticipation is huge, because you spent a mortgage payment to get there. It turns out to be a dimly lit brick and whitewashed room with a few tables and a small bar, all of course very sparsely decorated. (If you turned the lights on, it would probably look like a lonely apartment.)
It was our 10th wedding anniversary, so we did not heed the advice of Kim T.; we chose a table. We wanted to see each other. Perhaps, in hindsight, we should have heeded Kim's advice, but then we wouldn't have eaten there because my wife and I wanted to have a normal conversation.
My wife and I are fans of saki, but she does not like white wine. This threw the sampler menu out the window and the sommelier into a tailspin, for white wine goes with fish (and there's clearly fish on a japanese menu). He suggested a $140 bottle of saki, and it was hard to know whether he was just upselling or really thought it was good. His second selection also was the second most expensive, so we picked that. Maybe we were chumps, I don't know.
The truth is, the whole menu, even before we got there, made me uneasy. I feel like, when someone needs to use 7 words to say "mushroom", they must be hiding something. "Hhagama-cooked hokkaido yumepirika rice with oregon matsutake". Translation: Rice with mushroom sauce. Many restaurants are guilty of this, but I can't help but think it's pretentious, or for dumb people. I understand though, that no one's going to go to your restaurant if your menu says, "mushroom flavored rice"; unless of course, that rice is fan-frigging-tastic. Which, honestly, is the case here. Probably one of the highlights of the meal.
There are a steady stream of courses coming at you. It's not rapid-fire, by any means. The whole meal took 4 hours. This was grossly over what we told our babysitter, so after about hour 2.5, we were checking our phones constantly. I was also nervous as heck that I was going to break one of Mr. Furukawa's ancient fancy plates.
One of the most memorable points of the meal, for me, unfortunately was a lowpoint. There was some little pregnant fish that had been sliced the short way and treated in a bunch of fancy ways. Biting into it was reminiscent of eating my uncle's buckshot-filled wild game when I was a kid; something crunched in a way that was just wrong, and I thought I cracked a molar.
I'm confident Mr. Furukawa works his can off, I'm positive he believes 100% in what he's doing, and I'm sure he's mastered some Culture & Heritage test and that his forefathers would be proud. But just like the nude baths, the warm toilet seats, and the hot-liquid vending machines across Japan, I'm just not sure we're ready for him yet.
I do feel terrible for the 3 stars. Wish I could do 3.5. Would have done 4 had I not been concerned about cracking a tooth.
Oh- final note; google maps can't find this place for whatever reason. It got us within a few blocks. We called them and said we couldn't find the restaurant and they said, "Oh, you must be using google maps."