Hong Phuc N.
Yelp
I REALLY should stop doing sushi in Houston.
That being said, this review is kind of important. I missed the chance to rant about the state of sushi in Houston in general with Aiko because of a technical bug (and my failure in anticipating it), so I thought doing it with Ginza Onodera instead would be just as good as any.
So let's start from the basics. Why "Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera"? Ginza Onodera is a Michelin-starred sushi restaurants chain that started in Ginza (duh?) and since developed both Edomae and Kaiten locations. "Edomae" is basically traditional omakase stuff. As for "kaiten", it means "going around".
No, it does NOT mean conveyor belt, and while this could be implied in a sushi context, the word "kaiten" really doesn't denote any sort of machinery. All the other reviews complaining about the lack of a true kaiten option - where random pre-made dishes of feesh are paraded around the restaurant and you can pick off any one you want - are perfectly valid. Ginza Onodera's sushi might be served on a conveyor belt, but it's not kaiing any ten so far. It's very much okonomi ("as one likes" - asking the sushi chef directly which piece you'd like and he'll serve it to you right then and there, contrasting with "omakase" or "up to you") with extra steps.
Extra steps that are made even more confusing since sushi and not-sushi are served on two different belts, the former of which is VERY easy to miss, especially to East Asians who tend to have a shorter frame, ironically enough.
As for the food, it's decent enough but the restaurant is still fundamentally confused whether it wants to be casual like a kaiten or posh like an omakase. Besides the killer chawanmushi (great kamaboko and the orange peels really appreciate the dish!), anything that is good is also wildly expensive. Other highlights of the dinner were the botan-ebi (basically "proper" ama-ebi with a fuller, sweeter taste than the regular kind) and the fried octopus. The botan-ebi was like $8 a piece. The nama-tako (raw octopus) was also interesting, but I realized why octopus is usually served boiled after eating the stuff lol. I love "slimy" food and am a haute connoisseur of raw eggs, but even that was a little bit too much for me.
However, what most people come here for are the trios, most of which I found rather underwhelming. I could not even tell which piece was supposed to be the chutoro and which one was supposed to be otoro among the tuna trio, and the shiromi trio likewise didn't have a very clear differentiation of fishes. They don't even list the fishes in the menu, you have to figure it out yourself (or ask one of the many always-too-busy waiters). The bombs were good, but I also thought they were fundamentally uninteresting. It's just aburizushi under a different name. Definitely not flavorful, messy, or complicated enough to be considered a "bomb" in America. For what it's worth, they got the Houston smokiness down right.
Uni is $15 a gunkan but they offer two varieties for the same price: A bafun or a murasaki ("purple" uni). The bafun is your regular foie-gras-ish uni, whereas the murasaki has a lighter, smoother taste and is the objectively better choice. Now, let me preface this by saying that $15 uni is not unheard of. Top omakases in New York or Chicago can easily fetch that price. But this place is not top nor is it an omakase, so I don't know what that price tag's doing here. $15 is very comparable, ballpark, to a piece of uni at Kyoten Next Door and that uni wouldn't even want to breathe the same air as this version. This is average grade ("nami") uni at best and doesn't taste particularly interesting either if you've had good uni before.
And that brings me into why Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera might be a good gateway to peek into the state of sushi in Houston: Much like Aiko or Uchi, it's all style and no substance. Way too many complications and curiosities to cover up a fundamental lack of good food, at exorbitant prices. The choices you have are either that, or a bog standard strip mall "sushi" place that serves spider rolls drenched in way too much spicy mayo.
One thing I was explicitly asked to mention: They don't split and itemize the bills for you even when LITERALLY MOST OF THEIR MENU IS 1-PIECE NIGIRI (and I don't know how you feel about so-called "Southern hospitality" or Michelin-starred etiquette, but not everyone wants to treat all the other people in their party to dinner). They can only split it "evenly". In an offshoot of a Michelin-starred restaurant. In a place that at least should start to pretend to have good hospitality.
TL;DR Either commit to poshness and go to Aiko, or have a casual meal at Sushi Kura. Don't try to be both at the same time.