Marilyn T.
Yelp
We did a day trip to Sintra and had LAB planned for that night. LAB is located in the Penha Longa resort (a Ritz Carlton property), which is only accessible by car and is about 15 minutes from the Sintra town center / train station. We chose it because the chef trained under Ferrari Adria, and it had been a while since we had some good molecular gastronomy.
When you walk in, it's very modern looking, and you get a view of the kitchen split between LAB and their other restaurant. The dining room for LAB has a pretty view overlooking the golf course.
The full "locura de locura" tasting is €134. Due to some dietary restrictions, we couldn't do the full 4-hour 17-course tasting, but we did the 2nd menu, which was still quite a bit of food. The wine pairing for our dinner was only €65, with all Portuguese wines.
Tapas:
- Orange sorbet with red vermouth foam, and the signature Adria green olive
- Spanish tortilla with onion cream, egg yolk, crispy onion
- Green olive sponge with olives
1. Locuras: tapas representing different areas of Spain
- Soufflé of potato with octopus water foam and olive oil emulsion, sliced octopus - super intense flavor - loved it
- Tomato bread with green pepper and meat
- Squid ink cornet with squid and red onion cream, fried tentacles - this tasted surprisingly like pork
- Patatas brava: confit and fried into a cylinder, filled with tomato cream and aioli
- Hake fried in tempura with white vermouth mayo and parsley
2. Bread service
a. Bolo du caco (broken stone): Portuguese sweet potato bread - great texture
b. Folar: from the north behind the mountains, made with eggs and butter - like a savory brioche
c. Accompaniments:
- Olive oil emulsion
- Butter
- Pink salt
- Salt with herbs
3. "Caprese salad:" a rose was placed on the table, and "petals" were picked out for the dish caprese salad: tomato jam with mozzarella foam, balsamic, dehydrated tomato petals
4. White beetroot ravioli: topped with asparagus, with tuna skin underneath. It's finished with a green foam of asparagus, and a red sauce of borscht soup made with tuna
5. Signature veal sweetbreads: on the menu since they opened, and they change out the garnishes seasonally. You smell the smokiness as they take the meat off the charcoal grill. It's sweetbreads coated with mustard seeds and spices. On the side are a tomato "ravioli", Bordelaise jus, and Hollandaise
6. "Potatoes with a lot of importance": Hake, topped with a fried potato purée on top - garlic parsley, onion, saffron. Smells like an intense bouillabaisse
7. Black angus loin "a jardineira:" perfectly medium rare beef, very tender, with green peas, carrot purée, soufflé potato on top, pea powder
8. Blackberries with blackberry mousse, fake blackberries (blackberry cream and cocoa powder), lemon mousse, elderflower panna cotta and elderflower sorbet
9. "Travel sardine:" dessert plated like the paintings in the room, representing passions of the chef - music and travel, and sardine represents gastronomy (first tapa he served). The "sardine" is made with white chocolate with raspberry panna cotta, served with licorice ice cream
10. To finish: set up like the tapas to start
Classic pastries
- Apple pie: intense apple
- Salted caramel vanilla fritter: served warm, freshly fried
- Chocolate and hazelnut cone
- Pina colada: with a cool pineapple center
- Tiramisu
- Pistachio macaron
- Strawberry pate de fruit
Because it's on a golf course, they finished us with a tray of two white chocolate golf balls (like fortune cookies) sitting on a bed of green coconut grass - very cute and clever!
I would have been very happy eating an entire meal of those tiny bites from the tapas and desserts. For me, those were definitely the highlights, and I would be happy to come back for more of those. The main dishes were all creative and solid, but I think I get palate fatigue after a few bites.
This meal was a nice reminder of our time in Spain, and it featured some really unique Portuguese wines. In addition, the setting was a really nice change from the craziness of Lisbon and Sintra's city centers.