Laila Bayridge

"On a Thursday night at Laila, three tables are celebrating birthdays. Three times, the dessert comes out with an entourage of servers carrying flashing, handheld disco lights as an Arabic version of Happy Birthday blasts through the chandeliered room. Strangers put down their pita, and pick up the beat. Wine glasses are raised. Napkins twirl. But that’s nothing. On Fridays and Saturdays, there’s a belly dancer. Sometimes balancing a sword or a plate of candles on her head. photo credit: Sonal Shah photo credit: Sonal Shah photo credit: Sonal Shah Laila is so good at throwing parties that it’s possible to overlook the quality of the Syrian food at this Bay Ridge restaurant (which has an original location on Staten Island). One or two attention-grabbing plates—like an interactive fattoush—make an appearance. But for the most part, the dishes are pretty traditional. On the table, the fireworks are all flavor-related: complimentary olives in a spicy red sauce, dips with layers of citrus and cumin, tangy sujuk bursting out of their crisp, charred skin. video credit: Britt Lam Start with a few generous bowls of dips and some hot mezze. And, if you’re with a bigger group, pick one or two things from the meat- and rice-heavy “Grandma’s Kitchen” section, too. Don’t worry about over-ordering, because the food is all brain-scramblingly delicious, in a way that makes it difficult to decide which bite to take next. And everything tastes just as good after a night in your refrigerator. If thumping music isn't your thing, come for weekday lunch when you can get a salad, a cold appetizer and a kabab entree for $25, or a sandwich for $12. When the sun is shining into the enclosed porch extension, all the fake foliage on the ceiling makes it feel as peaceful as a picnic. The birthday parties are fun, but we'd visit Laila anytime. Food Rundown photo credit: Sonal Shah Fattoush Laila’s most camera-ready dish comes covered with a dome of fried bread, which you crack open to reveal the salad inside, creating the croutons at the same time. It’s a lot of fun, and the salad is great: high-crunch-factor slices of cold radish and cucumber tangle with lettuce—all bathed in the sweet tang of pomegranate molasses. photo credit: Sonal Shah Laila Combo Laila’s dips are almost dessert-like in their creaminess and nuttiness. The combo comes with four of the best: baba ghanouj with a distinct hint of smoke; hummus that’s as smooth as ice and has a faint aftertaste of garlic; a not-too-spicy muhammara, and an almost citrusy, buttery labneh. Along with the little complimentary bowl of marinated green olives, this is already a lot. But we also love the mama ghanouj, with strips of fried eggplant twisted with strips of red pepper. Don’t worry, little pitas—each slightly varying in size—arrive at a pretty regular pace. photo credit: Sonal Shah Kebbeh Nayeh You can keep your molecular gastronomy meat fruit, we’ll take this bulghur-beef tartare in the shape of a strawberry, thanks. It’s a very hearty portion, so only get this if you have enough raw meat eaters with you. photo credit: Sonal Shah Kibbeh Really great kibbeh, with a thin shell packed with deeply seasoned meat. Laila doesn’t skimp on pine nuts either. photo credit: Sonal Shah Kabab Banjan The eggplant in this sweet, deep tomato sauce is so lush, we just wish there were more of it draped over the tender lamb kabab. And the pile of rice is beautiful: long, still-separated grains, threaded with shreds of vermicelli. Stuffed Cabbage A worthy stop on our ongoing quest to eat as much stuffed cabbage from as many different cuisines as possible. This is filled with ground lamb and served in a lemony broth. A nice change from stuffed grape leaves (though you’ll find those here too). Dessert If you still have space for dessert, don’t bother getting it here. Instead walk over to Tanoreen for their justly famous kunafe." - Sonal Shah

"When was the last time you had a freshly rolled grape leaf? Filled with meat and pine nuts that tumble out when you bite through the crunchy wrapper? Kibbe in yogurt sauce, tomato-sauced fava beans with warm pitas, and home-style casseroles of ground lamb are some of the other wonders at Laila, a new Syrian restaurant at the main crossroads of the neighborhood. 8530 Third Avenue, corner of 86th Street" - Robert Sietsema