Ancestral Oaxacan cuisine, heirloom tomatoes, ceremonial smoke-kitchen traditions

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C. de Manuel García Vigil 304, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico Get directions
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"One could spend an entire afternoon in the shaded, breezy courtyard of the young talent, Chef Thalía Barrios Garcia. Colorful and creative, she channels traditional Oaxacan recipes as well as memories from her hometown of San Mateo Yucutindoo. Vegetables take priority over meat, evident in starters like the salad of local tomatoes dressed in a fruit vinaigrette and set on beet puree. The meatless tamales, which she learned from her grandmother, are peerless. A recent version featured delicate, full-flavored masa enrobed in a duo of moles and finished with squash blossoms. Heartfelt, comforting cooking can further be found in her machucados, a childhood favorite that blends tortillas and pipian salsa. A selection of ancestral beverages rounds out the experience." - Michelin Inspector

"Rooted in traditional Oaxacan recipes and seasonal ingredients, this One MICHELIN Star restaurant channels the flavors of San Mateo Yucutindoó. The kitchen prioritizes responsible, conscious sourcing with clear traceability, planting its own crops and turning to community market days for what it doesn’t harvest. Menus are colorful and creative, evolve with the seasons, and reflect a philosophy of letting each season arrive, be appreciated, and pass before preparing for the next. At its core, the project revives regional flavors and honors the full ritual of nourishment—from working the land to the food on the table." - The MICHELIN Guide US Editorial Team
"Levadura de Olla opens two windows into the food from la Sierra Sur in the southern highlands of Oaxaca. The classic path leads to dishes cooked observing regional tradition, like a barbacollita tamal. The more modern-creative side highlights ingredient quality—exemplified by native tomatoes served almost untouched, sliced over beet purée, and seasoned with a fruit vinaigrette—and broadens the range and textures of Oaxacan food. So expect to see sweet guava mole served with shrimp and weathered cauliflower, and standout pork ribs accompanied by bean sauce and pickled vegetables. This place also has a great selection of mezcal, but don’t overlook the non-alcoholic beverages, such as agua de maíz made with toasted and ground corn, and the Mesoamerican drink pozontle, featuring cacao, panela, and a thick layer of foam." - liliana lopez, mariana camacho

"At Levadura de Olla’s original space about a mile south, Barrios runs Cocina de Humo, her more casual traditional restaurant with shared tables, a fixed menu, and cooking classes upon reservation" - Atlas Obscura
"Levadura de Olla opens two windows into the food from la Sierra Sur in the southern highlands of Oaxaca. The classic path leads to dishes cooked observing regional tradition, like a barbacollita tamal. The more modern-creative side highlights ingredient quality—exemplified by native tomatoes served almost untouched, sliced over beet purée, and seasoned with a fruit vinaigrette—and broadens the range and textures of Oaxacan food. So expect to see sweet guava mole served with shrimp and weathered cauliflower, and standout pork ribs accompanied by bean sauce and pickled vegetables. This place also has a great selection of mezcal, but don’t overlook the non-alcoholic beverages, such as agua de maíz made with toasted and ground corn, and the Mesoamerican drink pozontle, featuring cacao, panela, and a thick layer of foam." - Mariana Camacho