Crystal M.
Yelp
I desperately want to love this little "gastropub" (as they call themselves), but try-as-they-might, they just haven't gotten it together.
Are they a dive bar? A neighborhood hang out? A sports bar? A gastropub? It's as though The Malvern is trying to be all of the above, and not doing any of it particularly well.
With a cocktail menu that sounded crafty and intriguing, I was tempted. And in four visits to this local bar, I sampled hibiscus punch, a cranberry vinegar cocktail, and a drink made with oat milk and amaretto. And then I realized it was best to stick with beer, or simple well drinks, as the bartenders are not adept at crafting cocktails. The cranberry vinegar cocktail was so heavy in vinegar, it was not dissimilar to taking a shot of straight, concentrated salad dressing. The hibiscus punch had zero floral notes, or undertones, it was bland and watery. And the best of the three, the oat milk and amaretto cocktail was so sweet, it could not be finished. When I asked the bartender to craft something using vodka and St. Germain, he simply presented me with a small glass containing a shot of each.
From the food menu, I've eaten the smoked trout dip, the cheese board, the burger and the cowgirl salad. Of the four, the trout dip was the best, but it was not remarkable enough to order twice. The cheese board, burger, and salad were all just mediocre menu items. Nothing special, nothing noteworthy or even interesting.
The addition of a brunch menu led me to believe there would be new food items. As it turned out, the brunch menu was comprised mainly of evening items that had simply been renamed. Poutine, brunch burger, the same crispy french toast served in the evenings...
And then, as quickly as they introduced brunch, they changed their venue hours and ditched brunch altogether. Back to the drawing board.
In 12 months, despite menu overhauls, changes in hours, cocktails, and taps, the Malvern has not managed to clearly carve out their niche. They would probably benefit from having true bar hours (open until 2 AM), and inexpensive small plates, beer specials, and well drinks. Forget trying to compete with the Asheville food and craft cocktail scene - they are in the perfect spot to be a popular bar. Highlight the local beers, run late night specials, and cater to the bar crowd. They have very little late-night competition in their neighborhood.