Daniel B.
Yelp
I give M Kokko a solid four stars. My wife and I really enjoyed the food, drink, and service here. M Kokko's Korean fried chicken is the best we've had to date in the Triangle. It was exceptional. And it looked much better than the versions we saw pictures of on Yelp that were posted in 2021. So if it was good then, then it's probably even better now (2024).
M Restaurants is our favorite restaurant group in the area. They've set a standard of excellence in Durham. The M stands for Michael as in the founder, owner, and chef, Michael Lee. His wife brushed the "M" logo that represents their brand. M Kokko opened on September 27, 2016 as a Korean fried chicken joint. It's next door to M Sushi, the best sushi restaurant in the Triangle (in my opinion).
M Kokko and M Sushi are hidden on the back corner of a brick building in downtown Durham. There's a small city-owned-and-operated parking lot next to the restaurants (Lot 32), but it only has 10 spaces and is often full. Alternatively, you can park on the street or in the nearby Durham Centre Parking Garage at 300 W Morgan St. For all of these options, hourly rates are enforced Monday-Friday, 8am-7pm.
M Kokko is first come, first served. Unlike the other M Restaurants, M Kokko doesn't take reservations. There's a touchpad at the entrance where you can sign your party up for the waitlist. My wife and I got lucky and were seated right away around 5:30pm on a Saturday. We got the second-to-last two-top. When we arrived, the dining room and uncovered makeshift patio were almost completely full.
The restaurant is very small and the space is simple. I counted exactly 22 seats inside. I didn't count the outside seats, but if I had to guess, maybe 8-10. The patio was string-lit. Inside, the tables were small and placed closely together. The vibe was casual and the place was bustling.
The restrooms are shared between M Kokko and M Sushi.
The main food menu was limited to eight dishes plus four desserts. Beverage-wise, they offered cocktails, sake, beer, and wine. M Kokko and M Sushi share alcohol. One of the cocktails we got here was the same as what we got at M Sushi.
Here's what we had:
Cocktails
* Ginger Peach Mule ($17) - Tito's Handmade Vodka, ginger, peach, lime, Fever-Tree Ginger Beer
* Blueberry Ginger Smash ($18) - 1792 Bourbon, rosemary, lime, simple syrup
Food
* KFC Wings ($17) - Garlic Soy
* Ramen ($17) - pork chashu, black garlic oil, bamboo shoots, soft-boiled egg
* Hainan Chicken ($17) - poached chicken, cucumber salad, chili, and soy sauce; Singapore's national dish
* Biang Biang Noodle ($15) - smoked tofu, yu choy, cilantro, crispy shallots, pickled mustard, black vinegar, and chili oil
Dessert
* Coconut Sorbet ($11) - served in a coconut shell with "tropical fruit"
The Ginger Peach Mule was excellent. That's the cocktail we had before at M Sushi, except it was $14 there about a year-and-a-half ago and $17 here. The price difference wasn't too surprising given recent high inflation. This is one of those sneaky strong drinks. It was cold and refreshing.
The Blueberry Ginger Smash immediately reminded me of another cocktail I had at M Sushi and didn't like, the Purple Haze Hot Sake & Chambord Black Raspberry Liqueur. While fundamentally different ingredient-wise, both cocktails reminded me of Dimetapp cough medicine. My wife liked the Blueberry Ginger Smash though, so it wasn't all bad.
One of the dishes we wanted to try here was the Jia Jiang Mian (zhajiangmian), Chinese noodles with fermented black bean sauce. Unfortunately, they were out. Since we were one of the first seatings of the day, I think they had been out of Jia Jiang Mian for multiple days. That was disappointing.
The KFC Wings were outstanding and I have to admit, better than I expected. This was among the best Korean fried chicken I've had anywhere, that I can recall, and this includes a lot of the tried-and-true Korean fried chicken chains. Everything about them was perfect. They got the extra crispy and crunchy texture just right. The wings were nice and meaty *and* juicy. Overall, the wings were incredibly flavorful and well balanced. If I had to nitpick, there could've been a bit more sauce. Along with the Garlic Soy flavor we got, other KFC flavors here included Spicy and Nashville Hot.
The Ramen was solid. In Durham, we still prefer the ramen at Rose's because the noodle quality and texture was better there (from our experience). Also, M Kokko's ramen broth isn't the richest nor the most complex. That said, I do think it's tasty and worth ordering. The Hainan Chicken was yummy as well. This is a staple, straightforward, comforting rice and chicken dish and M Kokko did a fine job with it. My wife liked the Biang Biang Noodle more than the Ramen, but I thought the opposite. The noodles were wide, appetizing, and had nice texture.
The Coconut Sorbet was light and delicious. Recommended.
Service was fantastic. Kailey was our server. Everyone we interacted with was great.