Manuela
Restaurant · SoHo ·
Art-filled dining room with seasonal American cuisine and cocktails
Art-filled dining room with seasonal American cuisine and cocktails
"Plant-filled and tucked inside the Hauser & Wirth art gallery in the Arts District, this hyperseasonal Southern comfort spot offers a sunny, upscale garden-party vibe that pops against the industrial neighborhood. The on-site organic garden surrounds the dining area and supplies herbs and greens for the menu, while small Southern California growers fill out the rest; skylights and string lights bathe the space in a warm glow, and the outside gallery shows commissioned works by Paul McCarthy, Mark Bradford, and Raymond Pettibon. Known for a lively brunch (with many favorites available at lunch and dinner), we tore through three orders of the cream biscuits; the cast-iron cornbread is a delightful alternative for gluten-sensitive or vegetarian diners. The mammoth pork chop arrives with roasted Jimmy Nardello peppers, whose rare heirloom sweetness and buttery flavor add a bright pop of color, and fig leaf ice cream ends the night creamy and not too sweet, a surprising savory-leaning finale. Drinks skew vegetal, with homemade bitters and tonics; the wine list is curated to complement the menu’s core of acid and smoke, and in our first round the earthy Archie—beet-rested Illegal mezcal, Oro blanco, and lemon—was the clear favorite. As a bonus, antsy kiddos can watch the restaurant’s chickens in the adjoining space; these cool gals even have their own Instagram." - Sarah Medina
"Most Soho restaurants are tough to get into, even Fanelli Cafe with its substandard salads and merely decent chili. But you can always grab a table at Manuela. The seasonal American spot from a few international gallerists offers plenty of seating in a L-shaped room crammed with art worth millions. The George Condo is impressive, but the greasy biscuits with ham are what you'll be thinking about the next day." - bryan kim, willa moore, will hartman, sonal shah, molly fitzpatrick
"No, that’s not a Picasso on the wall—it’s actually a George Condo, which is also pretty impressive. Soho’s Manuela is home to some very nice art, because it’s owned by some very successful gallerists. If you want to eat seasonal American food in a room that’s essentially a museum, complete with a Louise Bourgeois sculpture, this is a good, stylish choice." - willa moore, bryan kim, molly fitzpatrick, will hartman, sonal shah
"Iwan and Manuela Wirth, known for mega modern art gallery Hauser & Wirth, have opened Manuela, adjacent to the Hauser & Wirth Soho outpost. It’s a sibling to the first Manuela that opened in Downtown Los Angeles in an urban farm space with live chickens. There are, of course, no live chickens here — but the artsy interior is wild and worth the trip alone. And the menu is distinct from Los Angeles: Sean Froedtert, formerly of Buvette, oversees the kitchen, turning out straight-ahead fare. Think: crudo, carpaccio, chicory salad, butter beans, grilled halibut collar, roasted lamb saddle, and a golden beets side with almond butter and dill. It’s open for lunch, dinner, and brunch." - Melissa McCart
"Picture a museum designed by Tim Burton. That’s Manuela, a Soho spot with funhouse energy from a few international gallerists. An oversized bronze spider from Louise Bourgeois guards a back stairwell, and a tangled canopy of illuminated mushrooms hangs over the bar. The place is a spectacle, but the food is surprisingly tame. photo credit: Kristen Teig photo credit: Dave Watts photo credit: Kristen Teig Pause Unmute If you’re looking for a unique, accessible Soho option where you can impress someone who landed at JFK then immediately hit the Loewe store on Greene Street, this is it. Generally, the locally sourced American food—chicken over a tart white bbq sauce, crisp chicories with planks of blue cheese—is good, but unmemorable. But when there’s a multimillion-dollar spider on the wall, unmemorable works just fine. Food Rundown Cream Biscuits With Country Ham And Steen’s Butter The undisputed highlight of Manuela's menu. Crisped on the bottom and moist inside, these biscuits emit whole clouds of steam when you break them open. Spread some of the sweet butter on top, and make yourself a ham sandwich. photo credit: Bryan Kim Chicories With Blood Orange, Pistachios And Von Trapp Blue Cheese This feels less like a salad and more like a bowl of distinct ingredients reluctantly living side by side. It doesn’t come together, but we do appreciate all the cheese. Hudson Valley Duck Breast A very standard, and slightly overcooked, serving of duck in a sticky pool of reduced duck jus. photo credit: Bryan Kim Butterball Potatoes With Dill Onions And Crème Fraiche Tender, partially smashed potatoes with dollops of creme fraiche and a whole lot of onions. If you need a side to round out your meal, go for it." - Bryan Kim
