Manuela - Review - Soho - New York - The Infatuation
"Picture a museum designed by Tim Burton. That’s Manuela, a Soho spot with funhouse energy from a few international gallerists. An oversized bronze spider from Louise Bourgeois guards a back stairwell, and a tangled canopy of illuminated mushrooms hangs over the bar. The place is a spectacle, but the food is surprisingly tame. photo credit: Kristen Teig photo credit: Dave Watts photo credit: Kristen Teig If you’re looking for a unique, accessible Soho option where you can impress someone who landed at JFK then immediately hit the Loewe store on Greene Street, this is it. Generally, the locally sourced American food—chicken over a tart white bbq sauce, crisp chicories with planks of blue cheese—is good, but unmemorable. But when there’s a multimillion-dollar spider on the wall, unmemorable works just fine. Food Rundown photo credit: Bryan Kim Cream Biscuits With Country Ham And Steen’s Butter The undisputed highlight of Manuela's menu. Crisped on the bottom and moist inside, these biscuits emit whole clouds of steam when you break them open. Spread some of the sweet butter on top, and make yourself a ham sandwich. Chicories With Blood Orange, Pistachios And Von Trapp Blue Cheese This feels less like a salad and more like a bowl of distinct ingredients reluctantly living side by side. It doesn’t come together, but we do appreciate all the cheese. photo credit: Bryan Kim Hudson Valley Duck Breast A very standard, and slightly overcooked, serving of duck in a sticky pool of reduced duck jus. Butterball Potatoes With Dill Onions And Crème Fraiche Tender, partially smashed potatoes with dollops of creme fraiche and a whole lot of onions. If you need a side to round out your meal, go for it." - Bryan Kim
