Austin B.
Yelp
tl;dr the menu may seem unconventional at first glance, but the rich street food served at this authentic shop is all the rage in Indonesia
Martabak, derived from the Arabic word for "folded," refers to the stuffed, pancake-like street food common in Indonesia and other Southeast Asian countries. The "telor" (savory) martabak variety popularized in Jakarta is reminiscent of roti with meat, egg, and scallions, while the manis (sweet) style from Surabaya is more like a thick, chewy pancake. The latter is classically topped with butter, peanuts, and cheese, but more innovative fix-ins range from matcha to Oreos to Nutella.
While martabak hawkers are always a stone's throw away in Indonesia, dedicated vendors are understandably limited in the States. Enter Martabak OK. This tiny cafe quietly debuted on Washington Ave in 2018, its black-and-yellow striped awning standing out among an otherwise dull block. Martabak OK quickly picked up Philadelphia Magazine's "Best Suped-Up Pancakes" award. Then, the takeout-centric shop weathered the pandemic, which was when my partner and I first tried their street food lineup.
The interior is decked with hand-painted murals depicting Martabak OK's cartoon mascots. Rope-and-bamboo chandeliers hang from the textured ceiling panels. In lieu of tables, the small customer space has one long pickup counter for takeout bags, as well as a few stools intended for waiting rather than dining. The extensive menu is displayed across 4 wall-mounted screens on the back wall.
During our first visit, my partner and I ordered both martabak telor and martabak manis, and we immediately were surprised by the sheer weight of our takeout boxes. Just a single order of the dense fare could surely fill up a small family. We also fondly recall the unparalleled richness of both varieties. When Martabak OK recently released their "Mini" series (the same snacks fit for a smaller collective stomach), we were game for a return visit.
This time, we opted for 2 sweet ones: the Pandan (with sweet corn and shredded white cheddar) and the Red Velvet (with Oreo and cream cheese) Minis. I ordered ahead with ASAP pickup, but we were quoted a few additional minutes once we arrived. During our downtime, another patron -- an Indonesian immigrant now living in New York City -- shared that he was picking up a massive, weekly bulk order on behalf of his cultural community back in NY. He gave Martabak OK a thumbs-up on authenticity.
We soon were handed a reusable takeout bag with two small-but-hefty boxes, and we darted home to dine. Per Martabak OK's recommendation, we gave our food a 1-minute zap in the microwave to achieve a warm temperature and smooth consistency to the cream. Both styles dripped with butter and were slathered with the same, memorably rich condensed milk-based filling. This go-around, I also was impressed with the pancake itself -- crispy on the exterior while pleasantly chewy throughout. We both preferred the pandan style, which paired the characteristic richness with salty cheese and mildly sweet corn. The red velvet martabak offered a rush of sugar that, while yummy, would surely become overwhelming beyond my single slice.
Mini sizes (which, again, are plenty to split between 2 people) run a hair under $10, while the full portions cost closer to $20. The unique novelty of martabak is a welcome component of Philly's fast-casual dining scene, and I see myself returning when I get a strong hankering for the chewy, sweet-and-salty richness.