Nobu S.
Yelp
Sadly, after 12 years in San Diego, I will be soon departing to Minnesota next month (May 2024) and so, my friend, a hardcore sushi foodie (a.k.a. snob!) who regularly eats out at famous sushi joints in US and Japan, took me here for my farewell "real" sushi dinner. And what we had was very likely the most authentic Edo Mae = 江戸前 or Tokyo style = THE OG sushi in SD!
Actually, the chef TJ is an American from Utah but trained in Japan (and even opened the first Matoi there in Tohoku) before he moved back here and opened this restaurant. He is very serious about mastering and serving legit Edo Mae. We tried his sushi omakase course + additional pieces = about 20 different types of fishes - all directly flown from Toyosu Fish Market in Tokyo and some of these are rare to find in US, like ishidai (striped breakfish), ainame (fat greenling) and shogo (baby kanpachi = greater amberjack).
All nigiris were excellent but stand outs include kohada (gizzard shad), aji (Japanese horse mackerel), nama dako (raw octopus) and tamago (omelette). Of which, kohada, which is prepared as "sujime" or pickled with rice vinegar, is the most important fish in Edo Mae Sushi and often used to test the craftsmanship of sushi chefs. TJ's kohada was truthful to the classic and achieved the right balance between vinegar and salt which masterfully brought out kohada's delicate umami.
We were also impressed that he prepared two types of sushi rice; one with regular rice vinegar but the other with red vinegar (made from pressed sake lees) which was actually the way sushi rice or "shari" was used to be often prepared in Tokyo. My friend said chef TJ maybe the only one in San Diego following this tradition, which isn't commonly practiced even in Japan.
Matoi offers two time slots: one starting at 5 pm and the other at 7:30 pm. We started at 5 pm and wanted to try more fishes but unfortunately run out of our time because the next groups for the 7:30 slot were waiting. So, if you want to try more sushi, then the later time slot is recommended. (TJ said there is a "secret" third slot starting at 10:30 pm-ish mostly for his regulars occasionally... but he already invited us to come back for the secret slot after the first visit... so, it may be that you just need to ask for!).
Even though TJ is not a Japanese, he very likely serves the most authentic Edo Mae sushi in SD and he is the only sushi master at Matoi - meaning you can really count on his quality control; I cannot stress enough the craftsmanship matters as much as or even more than fishes (and rice) for REAL sushi. I have had rather disappointing experiences at other famous sushi restaurants (even in Japan) when sushi was not prepared by less qualified sushi chefs.
BTW, because TJ is so serious about serving you the truly authentic Edo Mae Sushi experience that he could prepare in SD, he asks his customers to follow the etiquette which is prominently posted on Matoi's homepage. You better follow the etiquette, because these rules really enhance your sushi experience! And if you do not follow these rules, as keeping the well-established Japanese tradition (as I was taught as a kid growing up there; obviously I wasn't good at following...but...), he will ask you to leave - just like any true sushi master in Tokyo will!
So, Matoi is HIGHLY recommended for the most authentic Edo Mae Sushi experience in San Diego, IMO, including the sushi etiquette. BUT no needs to be fearful; I found TJ is very friendly, highly knowledgeable (ask him any sushi related questions!) and a nice guy!