Steaks, foie gras, burgers, and French bistro classics























"Taking extra steps to protect employees and diners, a manager locked the doors and closed the blinds at 9:45 p.m. on Sunday after getting word that federal agents were in Union Market, letting after-dinner guests stay inside to wait for their Ubers." - Tierney Plumb
"An outpost of the Greenwich Village classic (a fixture since 1937 and associated with Keith McNally’s storied 2008 takeover) opened in the Union Market area last December and aims to recreate the original's effect: fans of the New York spot will feel almost eerily at home despite fewer red curtains and slightly more room to inch past the bar. The location is already cultivating a following of regulars and VIPs — a bar manager introduced himself to the owner of a Japanese restaurant waiting at the bar, and “welcome back” is a regular greeting at the hostess stand. Dress on a typical Friday skewed 'very typical D.C.' (not a ton of color, with standout exceptions such as 'the man with the dramatic orange coat and eye-catching bag'), though flashes of personality appear in zebra-striped heels and fuzzy teal boots. The front bar is the best seat to be part of the buzz; ordering at the bar is encouraged even for elaborate dinners (a past visit saw four different orders of the restaurant’s 'epic bone marrow dish' make it to the bar), and bartenders give as much attention and recommendations for wine and cocktail orders as they would to a table. Friday’s bar crowd ranged from a diner relaxing with a book and a burger to two chatty colleagues wrapping up their conversation with a chocolate souffle — 'that’s out of control; that’s too much,' they said — plus couples catching up and people-watching from three prominent front booths (the owner can be spotted at the center booth when in town; on the reviewed Friday he was upstairs). In the back dining room, semi-circular half booths give a great view of the action but 'can be a tight squeeze for both dishes on the plate and humans larger than a size two sharing space.' Food notes preserve the highs and lows: appetizers generally shine — 'French onion soup is exactly what you want it to be,' bone marrow 'is supremely rich and generously portioned,' and 'both tartares (tuna and steak) are stellar.' Among entrees, the coq au vin is singled out as 'the star of the entrees'; the burgers have a following but were underseasoned on a recent visit. The Grand Marnier souffle is called 'a showstopper,' and in a playful note the waitress confessed to pairing the dessert-menu madeleines with appetizer foie gras — 'next time.'" - Missy Frederick
"It doesn’t matter if you visit Minetta Tavern for a cocktail at the bar alone on a Tuesday or plan weeks (months?) ahead for a Saturday dinner with friends that stress tests your credit limit. Much like at the original New York location, both experiences will feel special. The vibes—and seemingly the decor—have been air-lifted from Greenwich Village to Union Market, with buttered yellow light, black-and-white tiled floors, and burgundy banquette booths just begging to be splashed with a bit of gin from a full martini. Whenever you go, and for whatever occasion, the space will probably be packed with people loafing around the bar and sipping drinks while waiting for a seat. You should do the same, and forget about how long the wait might be. You’ll get a table (or a bar stool) eventually, and when you do, order the coq au vin. Served with housemade gnocchi and arguably substantial enough for two, it’s one of the best versions of the dish we’ve had, and it works particularly well with a Burgundy from the deep and French-leaning wine list. Or if you’re here mostly for the burger that launched a thousand TikToks, don’t worry, the Black Label made the trip down to DC, too. photo credit: Corry Arnold photo credit: Corry Arnold photo credit: Corry Arnold photo credit: Corry Arnold Pause Unmute" - Jonathan Smith
"Three long years after first announcing the lease, the longtime Greenwich Village tavern finally swings on Tuesday, December 10 in a gritty Union Market district alleyway (1287 4th Street NE). Originally a bar that served literary greats like Ernest Hemingway and Ezra Pound back in 1937, the restaurant started a new chapter in 2009 under its current owner; his polished takeover "instantly got a glowing New York Times review." The high-end tavern, with Parisian flair, became best known for a Black Label burger that many New Yorkers will gladly pay $38 for; the owner told Eater, "Since we opened in 2009 we’ve sold just over 724,000 Black Label hamburgers. One customer in particular is responsible for eating 2,000 of them. (Not all in one night. Over the course of nearly 15 years.)" The chefs behind the original recipe ran other kitchens for the owner before going on to open Tribeca sensation Frenchette. On why he chose D.C., he recalled being "obsessed with paintings" two decades ago and taking monthly train trips to the National Gallery of Art and the Phillips Collection: "I did this religiously for two years. Although I saw little else but museums, I loved D.C. and always wanted to spend more time here." He also described the personal aftermath of a health crisis: "In 2016 I suffered a stroke that left my body semi-paralyzed and my voice in tatters. I was so depressed that I lost all sense of purpose. For better or for worse, the only thing that gives me purpose in life is building and operating restaurants." Regarding the D.C. edition specifically he said, "The menu will be 75 percent the same as the New York iteration. The interior will look 90 percent the same. The exterior is quite different because the New York site is located on one of the busiest streets in the Village and the D.C. site is located on a beautiful deserted alleyway in the Union Market area. (I much prefer the deserted alleyway location.)" He also uses Instagram as a primary means of communication since the stroke: "Instagram — which I loathe 70 percent of the time — then became my voice." - Tierney Plumb
"Bringing his famed New York burger bar to D.C., Keith McNally is recreating the 1930s-era Greenwich Village relic with a two-story corner counterpart that promises the same (or better) look and feel — including pressed tin ceilings, a sensational private dining room, and a secret roof bar — and will serve the caricatured city favorite $38 burger; early construction photos show a white subway-tiled interior in progress, and the D.C. account already has a sizable Instagram following despite no posts." - Tierney Plumb