10

"An outpost of the Greenwich Village classic (a fixture since 1937 and associated with Keith McNally’s storied 2008 takeover) opened in the Union Market area last December and aims to recreate the original's effect: fans of the New York spot will feel almost eerily at home despite fewer red curtains and slightly more room to inch past the bar. The location is already cultivating a following of regulars and VIPs — a bar manager introduced himself to the owner of a Japanese restaurant waiting at the bar, and “welcome back” is a regular greeting at the hostess stand. Dress on a typical Friday skewed 'very typical D.C.' (not a ton of color, with standout exceptions such as 'the man with the dramatic orange coat and eye-catching bag'), though flashes of personality appear in zebra-striped heels and fuzzy teal boots. The front bar is the best seat to be part of the buzz; ordering at the bar is encouraged even for elaborate dinners (a past visit saw four different orders of the restaurant’s 'epic bone marrow dish' make it to the bar), and bartenders give as much attention and recommendations for wine and cocktail orders as they would to a table. Friday’s bar crowd ranged from a diner relaxing with a book and a burger to two chatty colleagues wrapping up their conversation with a chocolate souffle — 'that’s out of control; that’s too much,' they said — plus couples catching up and people-watching from three prominent front booths (the owner can be spotted at the center booth when in town; on the reviewed Friday he was upstairs). In the back dining room, semi-circular half booths give a great view of the action but 'can be a tight squeeze for both dishes on the plate and humans larger than a size two sharing space.' Food notes preserve the highs and lows: appetizers generally shine — 'French onion soup is exactly what you want it to be,' bone marrow 'is supremely rich and generously portioned,' and 'both tartares (tuna and steak) are stellar.' Among entrees, the coq au vin is singled out as 'the star of the entrees'; the burgers have a following but were underseasoned on a recent visit. The Grand Marnier souffle is called 'a showstopper,' and in a playful note the waitress confessed to pairing the dessert-menu madeleines with appetizer foie gras — 'next time.'" - Missy Frederick