Mordi & Vai

Deli · Testaccio

Mordi & Vai

Deli · Testaccio

3

Nuovo Mercato Comunale di Testaccio, Via Beniamino Franklin, 12/E, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

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Highlights

Mordi e Vai serves up authentic Roman street food with tender beef and housemade artichoke sandwiches in a buzzing Testaccio market spot.  

Google Rating
4.7
(992)
Featured in The Infatuation
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Nuovo Mercato Comunale di Testaccio, Via Beniamino Franklin, 12/E, 00153 Roma RM, Italy Get directions

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€1–10

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Nuovo Mercato Comunale di Testaccio, Via Beniamino Franklin, 12/E, 00153 Roma RM, Italy Get directions

+39 347 663 2731
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mordievai

€1–10

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Jul 30, 2025

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Friday Fives: Katie Parla's Guide To Rome

"Perfect For: Cheap Eats Under normal circumstances, if you wanted to eat tripe, tongue, braised meat, or simmered artichokes in Rome you would have to head to a trattoria or restaurant for a full-on meal, devoting precious time and money. But at Box #15 in the Mercato di Testaccio, Mordi e Vai offers Rome's offal, meat, and vegetable classics in fast food form. For around €3.00, get a ciabatta filled with the Roman dish of your choice. I never miss the panino con l'allesso (tender brisket)." - chris stang

https://www.theinfatuation.com/new-york/guides/friday-fives-katie-parlas-guide-to-rome
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@katieparla

If you eat one meat dish in Rome, make it a sandwich with allesso di scottona (simmered brisket) at Mordi e Vai. It’s amazing with or without cicoria. If you have room, get a second panino filled with polpette di bollito (fried shredded allesso).

Rome's Essential Dishes
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Soroosh A.

Yelp
Would I come back here? Yes Would I recommend to friends and family? Yes If you are looking for a sandwich in the testachio market then look no further. I eat a lot of sandwiches and hold high expectations. Mordi e Vai met those expectations. Food: 5/5: if you're are looking a sandwich that has few ingredients but is made to perfection then order to Allesso di Scottonia (no substitutions). The meat is tender and amazing. They have other options which I would love to try again in the future. Ambiance: 4/5: The testachio market is an open/semi-outdoor market where you can buy fruit/vegetables, deli meat, clothing/purses, specialty food/spices/goods, and try amazing food. It's not a huge market but it's worth doing a 30min stroll. Great spot to come to if the people you're with all want to eat something different. There is pasta, pizza, sandwiches, fruit, coffee, and more.
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Peter C.

Yelp
Started as a butcher shop many years ago and reimagined to a 'fast food' place in my new favorite market - Mercato di Testaccio, these guy know a cold Sardinian beer and a panino like no one's business. If I lived here, this would be my daily lunch...I mean like every day. Bottom Line: worth it even to see what happens when a butcher shop reemerges as a sandwich place...worth it
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Noah B.

Yelp
Do not miss this if you are in the area! Authentic Italian sandwiches the way locals make them. I had #9 and it was delicious. The meat was fresh and the bread was not heavy. Would highly recommend.
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Cookie J.

Yelp
In a word, Perfecto. There's so much over the top goodness to be had in the Market, but this is a do not miss.

John W.

Yelp
This place is 5 stars for a reason. Great spot in the awesome Mercato di Testaccio. We had the number 1 which was a simple beef and broccoli mix sandwich but honestly everything on the menu looked delicious. The employees were nice, overall vibe was incredible and the super fresh food was even better. Highly recommend visiting Modi e Vai in Mercato di Testaccio!
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Cory W.

Yelp
I mean what else can I say that hasn't already been said? This was my second time in Rome as well as my second time here for a sandwich. My local friend brought me here and feeling a bit rushed to decide when faced with sooooo many delicious looking options I just pointed to one that looked interesting and man did I (and they) nail it! It tasted as though I had selected some pork stewed with zucchini flowers that they slapped onto some ridiculously good bread that I can only assume they make themselves. As if that wasn't good enough they topped it with slices of pecorino. Scrumptious...so much so that I trekked back here on my return to Rome. This time around I had the carciofi with Pecorino. Simply put this is a roman style marinated whole artichoke squashed on to the bread and topped with cheese. Slightly more delicately flavored than the first go round but equally as good. God love an artichoke. As much great food as there is to explore in Rome this will be one my regular spots here for sure. If I remember correctly the sandwiches are €5 so take a number, have your order and your money ready, grab a bunch of napkins and pop a squat in one of the chairs around the corner from the counter and prepared to be dazzled by a good ol sandwich.
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Amy S.

Yelp
Great sandwich place! Definitely recommend going. We tried the boiled meat one (better than it sounds) and the vegetarian artichoke. Both were delicious! Service is fast once they call your number. Wait time for that is a little longer but we didn't wait longer than 15minutes I think. The market itself is very fun as well! Definitely worth a visit.
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Harry K.

Yelp
I bought 2. I think the filling is great and amazing, but my one issue is the bread. Bread is a little too dry for me, even though it's meant to sop up all that gravy and juices. I personally think a toasted crunch with olive oil bread would be better and that dry chalkiness would stop.
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Jake S.

Yelp
For the price of 4 euros the Panini/Sandwich was pretty good! Didn't blow me away but it was a good meal while stopping by the market.
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Aixa C.

Yelp
Not a fan of "street food" from markets or carts. My meatball sandwich was absolutely delicious. Fresh, simple food. Friendly staff.
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B M.

Yelp
EAT HERE There are certain restaurants or food destinations that you have to hit when you go to a city. Mordi e Vai is one of those spots. Located at the far end of a covered market, you won't have to wait long before you're sinking your teeth into one of these delectable sandwiches. somebody send me a sandwich!!! What did we order? Veal, Broccoli rabe, salt slow cooked, tender veal sprinkled with the perfect hit of salt. This is their #1 l'allesso alla picchiapò stewed pieces of meat with a hint of spice, literal translation a little beat up... one of the most amazing sandwiches carciofi and parmesean the artichoke is roasted and is fork tender, he literally smashes the artichoke into the bread. T's favorite sandwich
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Keelin O.

Yelp
The BEST sandwich (panini) I have ever had! And so cheap. So delicious. The entire vendors market it amazing, but you must make a stop here. Will be missing this from the States!
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Darren B.

Yelp
Within the Mercato Testaccio, you will find Mordi e vai. I'm sure they have other good stuff here too, but, polpette, polpette, polpette! Get their polpette! You're welcome!
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Kat H.

Yelp
Mainly came here because we seen it on bizarre foods. But omg for such a little place the sandwiches are delicious. We even went back for seconds. I had a tripe sand which and my fiancé had the picchiapo. We fell in love with this place. The owner is so nice too! We feel this was definitely the best hidden gem in Rome.
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Alex G.

Yelp
Awesome sandwich spot in Testaccio market. Our favorite sandwiches were meatball, beef with tomato sauce, and veal with wine sauce. Service is fast and the sandwiches are reasonably priced. Also, you get to enjoy the rest of the market after eating. Go visit for a satisfying lunch!
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Mike D.

Yelp
Maybe this place has been over-hyped, but I just thought it was okay, not great. It was a little expensive, too. Maybe the hype has caused them to raise their prices recently. Anyway, I don't see any reason to go out of your way to go to this place. The rest of the Mercato Testaccio is pretty cool, though, and there is plenty of good food there.
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Brett B.

Yelp
Great place for a sandwich. P and I made the trek over here and had a great time at the market. We both had the beef on bread with gravy. I had greens on mine as well. We also loaded up on cherries and cookies from other vendors in the market. Not touristy. I recommend visiting if you want to escape tourist rome.
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Helene P.

Yelp
A good spot to get something to eat while you are wandering around the testaccio market. You can see all the fillings they have for their sandwiches, and there is a detailed menu in English showing which ones are the most popular.
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Nana B.

Yelp
Most amazing sandwich I have ever had. I'm still in Italy and can't wait for them to open tomorrow to try another kind! Must try this place, as simple as it looks. 10 stars!

Eloi R.

Yelp
I seen this on an episode of bizarre food and had to see for myself when I was able to come to Italy. THIS PLACE IS FIRE!!! I got the tripe sandwich and my wife got the meatball sandwich.. English friendly!
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Matthew S.

Yelp
I stopped in here for a picciapo sandwich based on Bizaare foods, and it was everything he said it was. It was awesome! this is a little vendor booth that absolutely nails street food. Get ready to get dirty and dig on in.
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Lindsey S.

Yelp
Easily the best food we had in Rome. We made the trek here twice for lunch in our 10 day stay.

Peter Z.

Yelp
First off, the Testaccio Market is awesome, everyone in Rome should venture over. Authentic Market, no tourists around. We went to Mordi e Vai around noon, no line or anything. They have tons to choose from, i ordered the veal, arugula and tomato panino, while my wife ordered the carciofi (artichoke) and parmigiano panino. Very reasonably priced, 8 Euros for two sandwiches. They were amazing, both had unbelievable flavor, veal was tender and juicy. The artichokes were braised until soft and then smashed into the bread. After finishing our paninos, we were about to leave when i turned around and went to get another sandwich. This time i tried the trippa (tripe). Again, so much flavor and so tender. If you are in Rome, make sure you take the time to visit this place. These guys are the real deal.

Marcia B.

Yelp
Wonderful street food! Great beef on bread dipped in broth. Perfect lunch in Rome. If you plan to go and shop the market afterword know most of the shops close for the afternoon. Recommended by The Splendid Table.