Eric V.
Yelp
A few Sundays ago, I hit Garden Grove with intent. I had - in my arsenal - an Eater LA article, written by Euno Lee, that puts the spotlight on 21 dishes from 21 restaurants in Little Saigon. I figured it would be easy enough to hit a couple spots between coffees and socializing at cafes.
Except, I bungled the mission at the onset. There was a mix-up between the restaurants Ngu Ben and Binh Ngu. Too many "Bens" and too many "News," - Hey! It's all Vietnamese to me. I visited both these places and ordered the recommended dishes. The problem was that I ordered Ngu Ben's recommended dish at Binh Ngu and vice-versa.
These similarly named establishments prepare the food of Hue in central Vietnam. I was meant to try the bun bo hue, a wheat noodle soup with ham hock, blood curd, thin slices of beef, a lemongrass and barnyard fragrance with the customary thicket of herbs to be added at the diner's discretion, at Binh Ngu. Instead, I ordered the bahn it kep banh ram.
This is not an entry level rice dumpling. Euno Lee, of Eater LA, had intended for me to order the bahn it ram from Ngu Ben. The bahn it kep banh ram is delicious, but its texture may be something for even the most intrepid among us to have to overcome.
From the arrival of this dish at my table until I took my last bite, I kept comparing its different properties to Western corollaries. The shiny white dome over a tan disk topped with orange pink shrimp dust bears a striking visual resemblance to eggs Benedict. My initial bite of the crisp fried part of the rice transported me to the campfire and roasting marshmallows. I know this is getting weird, but hear me out. The rice has a sweetness to it. Could this be the result of having been cooked in some variety coconut liquid? Were the rice cakes rolled in some dry sweet substance before frying? Or is the rice sweet from its own mere sugar? I do not know, but it is sweet. That sweetness, fried to a golden brown crisp, recalls the flavor of a marshmallow that was roasted by a patient camper. Probably some ASB type girl, who put in the time to get the perfect brown sear on her mallow, who didn't go for the instant immolation that most of us do.
Eggs Benedict and S'mores?! Didn't I say that bahn it kep bahn ram is difficult for Westerners to dive in to? Then I go on and liken it to our most beloved comfort foods. It is the texture of the glutinous rice that challenges our world view. It is more glutinous than gluten itself. It stretches. It pulls. It never seems to diminish. To suffer another comparison, the crisp fried exterior giving way to a molten stretchy white interior transports the mind to the phenomena created by eating mozzarella sticks. But the glutinous rice interior would best mozzarella in an arm wrestling match any day of the week. It possesses a tensile strength that metallurgists are still trying to match. But delicious.
It's a tasty dish, topped with green onion and fluffy shavings of dried shrimp. Stuffed with a meager few pieces of chili marinated pork and bay shrimp, it could definitely use more filling. Yet it remains an exciting dish. So many textures. So many flavors. And thanks to the mix up, I ate the most revelatory meal I've had since the first time I sat before a bowl of pho.