Ops
Pizza restaurant · Bushwick
346 Himrod St, Brooklyn, NY 11237
Highlights
Sourdough pies, natural wines, and cocktails
Sourdough pies, natural wines, and cocktails
"Ops perfected their sourdough long before everyone jumped on the naturally leavened dough-train. Each time we eat here, their wood-fired pizzas seem to get tangier. In terms of style, Ops’ pies fit somewhere between crispy New York and soppy-in-the-middle Neapolitan: each slice remains straight when you hold it in the air, but the crust puffs up like a balloon. Truthfully it doesn’t matter what you call the style. What matters is that you’re going to want to come to their dimly lit, sexy sourdough pizza emporium in Bushwick every week, like you owe them starter money." - bryan kim, willa moore, kenny yang, carlo mantuano, molly fitzpatrick
"You could break all the entries on this list into two categories: places that would put ramps on pizza, and places that would not. Ops belongs in the first bucket, but their various seasonal toppings—which range from sweet potatoes to aji dulce peppers—are only part of the reason why you come here. Tangy, fluffy, and perfectly charred, Ops’ sourdough crust is one of the better inventions of the 2010s. Most of the pies here are a cross between New York and Neapolitan-style, but there’s an exceptional, crunchy square option as well. This Bushwick spot also has a list of natural wines and a candlelit dining room, so it’s perfect for a casual date." - willa moore, bryan kim, neha talreja, arden shore
"You’re going to try to make your own pizza at some point - and it might turn out pretty good. But you also might lose focus halfway through, resulting in you feeding your significant other a rhombus of soggy dough. And, honestly, the ensuing fight might ultimately be good for your relationship. Just know that you can skip it altogether and get delivery from Ops. Their fluffy sourdough crust is superior to whatever you’d make at home, and the square pie will make you forget that you’re now essentially Tom Hanks in Castaway (but with a talking Wilson)." - bryan kim
"This Bushwick pizza spot opens at noon on weekends, and the menu is really more of a lunch situation. Which is fine because when you aren’t interested in eggs, the difference between lunch and brunch is just two inconvenient letters. The pies at Ops stand out because of their sourdough crust, and all of your options are really good. Especially the square pie. See, Mrs. Haim’s 9th grade geometry class did come in handy after all." - hannah albertine
"While Roberta’s may have national acclaim, Ops is the local favorite. The small pizzeria serves up sourdough pies made using a flour blend, creating a well-balanced, crispy chewy base. Daily changing specials like salads and calzones help keep things fresh, and the natural wine list is expertly curated — making it an already fun spot for a night out. It’s sibling Leo, in Williamsburg, is popular for similar reasons." - Eater Staff
