Jeff O.
Yelp
One of the Great Yelp Mysteries of 2023 in my little UWS corner of the dining world is: Why the heck have only four people reviewed this new location of Chanson that opened five months ago?
I always get a little paranoid when something like this happens with a new outpost of a big-name restaurant/bakery. It's like, did two Yelp pages somehow get created for this business, and everybody except me is hanging out and having a blast on the other one? Is this new spot keeping irregular hours that have resulted in almost nobody else enjoying its deliciousness? Is the excitement about this opening actually so incredibly high that virtually no one has managed to pause and jot down some mental tasting notes or snap a photo before devouring their cinnamon kouign amann?
The silence is undeniably strange, given that Chanson is pretty prestigious -- not as sought-after as Dominique Ansel, but definitely in the upper echelon of sweets. It's the sort of place where people have plunked down $75 for dessert tasting menus (with a $60 beverage pairing!) at the flagship location. The Curious Case of the Missing Yelpers gets even weirder when you look a few blocks south on Broadway and find the perpetually jam-packed Rosetta, a Miami-based chainlet that's only been open since fall 2022 but has 20 times as many reviews as Chanson.
But I have a (serious) theory that might partly explain what's going on: Despite Chanson's prime location, it is extremely easy to miss. Its exterior consists of floor-to-ceiling windows, but they're darkly tinted. There's signage around the lower part of the windows, but it's pitch black. And the interior is so softly lit that, from the outside, you almost need to press your eyes against the windows to tell if it's open.
The good thing about this situation is that Chanson is always chill and tranquil (the opposite of the aforementioned Rosetta). The bad thing is that it makes me think Chanson ain't gonna last (the rent must be astronomical).
But I'll do what I can to boost the foot traffic by penning this (ridiculously long) review and singing the praises of basically everything I've consumed, including:
-- The pasteis de nata (Portuguese custard tart). Really excellent rendition of a classic; my wife usually detests custard and she adored this flaky little wonder.
-- The pistachio financier. This ain't your typical dainty little cake at afternoon tea; it's at least as large, and almost as heavy, as a hockey puck, with a tight, soft, vibrantly green crumb, plus a drizzle of amber-hued syrup on top.
-- The signature chocolate chip cookie. This can also double as a hockey puck; it's basically a blondie with chocolate chips, and it's distinct from the regular chocolate chip cookie, which is thin and has sea salt.
-- Savory options abound, and I was surprised to see slices of Spanish tortilla de patatas ($11). Chanson's version is heavy on the spuds, resembling a slice of scalloped potatoes. I prefer an eggier, wobblier style, but this is good.
-- Another savory and irresistible item is the chili-cheese palmier. Like the super-size financier, this is way bigger than your usual palmier -- it's nearly as hefty as a croissant and has a similarly light, laminated interior.
So yeah, don't let Chanson's incognito appearance or quiet Yelp page stop you from stopping in -- come eat some sweets (and be sure to leave a review!).