Laura S.
Yelp
We had an outstanding dinner here last night, as part of an early birthday present for my husband. We did the tasting menu with the wine accompaniment, which took around 4 hours or so, including the kir royales and olives at the beginning. We were seated in the small 4-table area at the front of the restaurant, and the service felt very personal and attentive the entire time. Doing the wine pairing was particularly fun, since the sommelier/waiter would have us eat a bit of the meal and drink a bit of the wine before he would reveal the region and name of the wine (each wine came from a different country). It sounds like that could be a little irksome, I know, but it was actually a great experience, with some easy guesses and some tough ones.
In addition to the olives, we started with four amuse bouche, three cold and one hot. The flavors ranged from salty to sweet, which was a nice contrast. Our first course was "Pickled Cornish Mackerel with Shaved Fennel Salad, Roasted Baby Beetroots, Beetroot and Balsamic Gel," paired with (spoiler alert) a 2009 Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire. The mackerel completely tasted of the sea, while the earthy, sweet beetroot balanced the dish. The fennel was very subtle, and the balsamic gave it all a nice tang.
Next, we had "Pan-Fried Scottish Scallops with Baby Artichokes, Gremolata, Iberico Ham, Lemon Verbena Jus Gras," paired with a 2010 Gruner Veltliner (Hasel). This dish really upended my tasting expectations! I love Iberico Ham, but sometimes find it a bit "fishy." Here, that fishy flavor fit in with the butter notes on the scallops, and the tartness of the lemon verbena. The "Seared and Poached Foie Gras with a Ragout of Borlotti Beans, Fresh Peas, and Sauternes Consomme," with a 2009 Ribeiro (Vino do Campo) was next. This dish also screamed "French classic" from the menu, but was invigorated by the little touches of the chef. The foie gras was seared to perfection, and the beans and peas (in particular) brightened up the dish and balanced the heaviness of the foie gras.
The fourth course was "Pan-fried Monkfish with Morels, Baby Leeks, and Liquorice Sauce," with a 2009 Viognier-Chardonnay (Qupe, from CA), and the fifth course was "Roasted Gressingham Duck Breast, Red Chard, Fresh Almonds, Cherry and Thyme Sauce," with a 2005 Quinto do Seival (from Brazil!). Both dishes were tender and rich, and the Brazilian wine was quite a surprise.
Now we were in the home stretch - cheese, desserts, and petit fours. The only disappointment with the cheese course is that the cheeses were chosen for us, rather than letting us select from the awesome-looking cheese board. The wine to accompany the cheese was a 2008 Bonarda Cinco Tierras from Argentina. The first dessert was a tart and sweet "Strawberry and Yoghurt Mousse with Fromage Frais Sorbet and (teeny tiny) Wild Strawberries" (with a 2008 Malvasia Colli Piacentini from Italy), and the second dessert was a sweet and tart ;^) "White Chocolate Creme Brulee with Kentish Raspberries and Lemon Leaf Ice Cream" (with a 2008 Mulderbosch Sauv Blanc). Both desserts captured the fresh flavors of summer, with a nice rich counterpoint, sort of a dressed-up strawberries and cream. The meal then finished with coffee and tea and a tray of petit fours, all of which were little works of art. The nougat was my favorite, but all of the tiny tarts were so nice, too.
I wish that I could come back here every week, it was so outstanding.