Mary's est. 2024

"Mary’s is one of those restaurants that might need to go on a spiritual retreat so it can figure out exactly who it is. A diner with sommeliers in Breton stripe tees? A brasserie for martini-drunk clients? The answer is somewhere in the middle, and you know what, we don’t have to get it to like it. The kind of British restaurant in Mayfair has white tablecloths and dark wood, a glowing neon burger sign above the bar, and servers who will pop your handbag on its own little stool while asking if you want truffle mayo with your smashburger. The answer is yes, thank you, you do want truffle mayo. There’s something fabulously bourgeois about getting messy with an extra-thick, melting pink patty alongside a £35 glass of Bordeaux—even if the too-airy, lacklustre bun isn’t as glam as a glossy brioche would be. We finally, almost, understand those people who hire a yacht only to demand their private chef prepare a glorified Big Mac. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Longstanding burger affinity aside, the other best dishes at Mary’s are the ones that hint at the restaurant’s undercurrent of fine dining, like a smart and sizeable duck croquette with rich, gravy-adjacent satay sauce, and a stylish half-moon of ajo blanco and creamy scallops. But no matter how tender your tomahawk is, the experience of pairing a triple-digit steak with the scent of a neighbour’s streaky bacon and chilli mayo will always feel a bit weird. The benefit of Mary’s not making sense is that it’s the ideal compromise for a show-off meal with picky friends, parents, or partners who just want to eat a decent burger while you kick back with something beurre-blanc-fancy on a leather banquette. So long as you accept that you’ll be starting the meal with a tweezer-perfected gurnard ceviche and ending it on a Krispy Kreme with ego, or maybe a nightcap at their broody little bar next door, The Blind Pig, you’ll enjoy yourself. Food Rundown photo credit: Mary's Orkney Scallop, Pickled Melon, Ajo Blanco Exhibit A in our noble crusade to demand that more London restaurants should slice scallops into bite-size slivers. The ajo blanco has a subtle hint of vinegar flavour, but when the scallops are this creamy and sweet, we’re happy for them to take centre stage. Duck Croquette, Pickled Cucumber, Satay Sauce Ignore the fact that this croquette has its own pickled cucumber fascinator and embrace this starter’s peak comfort factor. The satay is rich, extra thick, and a touch sweet, and the hulking croquette is the crispy duck patty we never knew we needed. photo credit: Mary's Mary’s Cumbrian Beef Dirty Smash Burger And Koffmanns Fries Anything involving a deep-fried pickle is a yes from us and the crispy-edge patty is a bit thicker than your average smashburger. From the medley of chilli mayo, melted cheese, and additional crunch courtesy of crispy onions and bacon, this is indulgently messy. Our only irk is the bun is a bit too light for the burger's hefty contents. Also, the fries fall on the too-salty side of the sodium spectrum. photo credit: Mary's Grass Fed Aged Tomahawk A good steak. The wood-fired grill gives it a nice char and we’re very into the melting blobs of butter that are masquerading as a peppercorn sauce. Sincere apologies to our arteries." - Heidi Lauth Beasley

"Mary’s has a bit of everything. There’s the main dining room where you can order Cumbrian dry-aged sirloin and a huge caesar salad to share, a bar area where you can get fries with curry aioli alongside a martini, and a burger counter that serves a smashburger and fries only. The choice is yours at this Mayfair restaurant." - sinead cranna, rianne shlebak

"Top-notch British ingredients features here at Jason Atherton’s flagship Mayfair restaurant, such as Cornish lobster and Devon lamb. They are used in cleverly constructed, modern dishes that retain a classic heart and yield bold, punchy flavours. Dishes are often finished at the table with a flourish, while the well-drilled and formally structured service team explain their composition. The smart bar is the place for drinks and snacks, while the well-spaced tables lend the room a sense of luxury and elegance; ask for the Chef’s Counter for a close-up view." - Michelin Inspector

"Mayfair has a fair few fine dining restaurants, but Pollen Street Social is perhaps the best of the lot. This isn’t stuffy like a lot of fine dining places and you don’t feel like you’re chained to the chair for a four-hour meal, which is always a plus. The set lunch is priced at £50—with an extended version for £75—and it’s an excellent choice for special occasions or as a treat for your parents." - Heidi Lauth Beasley, Jake Oliver, Rianne Shlebak

"Although it adheres to all of the usual fancy restaurant tropes—white tablecloths, concerningly engaged staff, plates of food that likely have their own blueprint—Pollen Street Social manages to feel kind of relaxed. Yes, a series of unexpected snacks will appear but no, you don’t always have to pay three figures. Considering you’re sitting in a Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant, and the modern European food (and the song and dance around it) is very good, it’s pretty good-value." - Heidi Lauth Beasley, Jake Oliver, Sinead Cranna, Rianne Shlebak