Jeffrey Y.
Yelp
Classic French Bistro with a Twist of Kitsch Americana
Located across from the rebranded Bucherer (nee Tourneau), this unassuming French bistro hides a quirky side as soon as you sit down and view the menu. Or check out the toilet for a tinkle. If ambiance were a place, this would be a fun stop on the train to Flavor Town...
Came in on a Saturday around 5, and we got seated immediately. Windows have a nice view of the hallway because indoors. Our waiter Curtis was a delight. Never have we ever had such an enthusiastic server fully aboard his own restaurant's brag train! I mean, this guy told me they were trying to get a Michelin badge (I assume me means Bib Gourmand), and more importantly, he thought this was the best restaurant in the mall. Heck, he said, Knife Pleat, a Michelin-star holder, didn't hold a candle. But how is this place really? If a black and white pic of Ozzy, the well-placed urinal right by the door of the men's restroom, the cheeky Pulp Fiction reference with their only burger item, or Elvis on a bill plate, or the complimentary Bazooka Bubble Gum are any fair indicators of the kind of dining experience you will have here, well, you were probably dead wrong. Because dining here is an experience that may call you back for more...
Ratatouille. Possibly scene stealer alert! This is not Moulin's tian Provençal or Disney's. But this is the real veggie stew. And man, the flavor is just so deep and phenomenal. It's recommended you eat with the toasted bread (which may be burnt to black a bunch or a bit), but a nice food hack awaits you with the Parker rolls... Definite recommend.
Parker Rolls. Oh so buttery goodness. So fluffy and warm. Pair with the Ratatouille. Or just eat with the salted butter as you please. But definitely order.
Spanish Octopus. Tender and super flavorful. Cucumbers add a nice reprieve to the intense flavor. Recommended app.
Escargot Ebelskivers. Concept is sound. I love the Apple aebelskivers from Solvang, I love takoyaki, I love escargot. But these turned out dry in the middle, lacking the signature flavor from a buttery garlicky escargots de Bourgogne. What I was hoping to get did not materialize on my plate. So forgettable, in fact, I almost forgot to include it in my review. Sadly, do not recommend.
Casarecce Pasta. Wow! Server swears these are real San Marzano tomatoes in the red sauce. And I will delightfully pretend that is true. That combined with the smokiness of the chili oil and the creaminess of the homemade ricotta are a fantastic combo. Mix the cheese and enjoy each savory and slightly sweet bite of this pasta entree. Recommend with enthusiasm.
Royale with Cheese(burger). If John Travolta and Samuel L. Jackson like it, so should you, right? I mean, they got their likeness drawn into the menu. But is it worth the center stage hype? One of the key deciding factors of a good burger is moisture because a dry burger is just not good. And many restaurants serve dry burgers, which is disappointing. But dry this burger is not. It's totally wet. Oftentimes, the offending ingredient is the bun, being just so horribly dry, if sucks up any moisture that the rest of the burger might have had. Here, the brioche buttery bun serves as a fine pallet for the inner layers. The burger itself is a good piece of prime steak, though I am not sure a Chateau cut really got to shine as well as it should have here. Sadly, the bulk of the moisture was just wateriness from the sauce. I call it sauce because that is what the Saint Andre cheese and the roasted and too wet onions produced. I know what the chef was doing, and while I can appreciate the concept, the explanation on the menu created a certain expectation that was not fulfilled. Granted, the patty was juicy and tender, no doubt, but any flavor beyond that just got overwhelmed by the watery sauciness of the cheese and onions. Cheese, my friends, should never be watery. For the French, it's sacrilege, because cheese to the French is as important a pillar of their cultural identity as wine is. Had the cheese ratio been increased -- perhaps a mixture with Gruyère for some bitter notes -- and the onions dried out more, the execution would have been perfect. Sadly, I don't recommend as it stands. Do recommend the sweet pickles that accompany though as a nice palate cleanser. Perhaps you can order those separately...
And yes, they give bubble gum with the bill. Nice touch, as years of my childhood came flooding back, chewing on dry, crumbly pink bubble gum, trying to blow bubbles terribly bad while reading tiny comics or collecting baseball, Batman, and Desert Storm cards... So go forth and try this bistro out. You may just get sucked back in after the first jaunt.