Edward W.
Yelp
L'Antoinette is a super French-ish new restaurant in Crabapple. Let's review our recent visits.
There is plenty of parking in the adjacent garage, and the walk is short to the front door.
The space is dark, warm and inviting with a large bar to the right when entering. Think date night appropriate. There are perhaps 20 tables, and the tables are nicely spaced so that there is plenty of room between you and other guests.
The wine list is fairly small for a French restaurant, and on a recent visit the posted Pouilly Fuisse by the glass was not in stock yet, limiting choices further.
The food is unexpectedly good, but unexpectedly different, too. For example, steak and frites.... The steak is nicely prepared and the menu claims an Epaule, or shoulder cut. Traditionally in French or Belgian brasseries this dish is a rump cut or an entrecôte, or rib cut, but I'm not being picky. The approximately 1 inch thick steak at L'Antoinette came out tasty and perfectly medium, as ordered, accompanied by large rectangles of pomme frites, or fried potatoes - very untraditional in presentation, and much heavier than expected. We prefer authentic frites, but the dish was very good.
L'Antoinette has sole. The fish. And for me it's the standout entree. Typically I've seen sole pan sautéed in Europe, but here they bread and deep fry a de-boned whole cut of the fish, with curly tail still on. And it is delicious. Moist white meat inside. Crusty outside. The buerre noisette, or browned butter with lemon, was a perfect, light accompaniment. Again, fried sole may not be a traditional French presentation, but this dish is outstanding!
The coq au vin scared me away on my first visit. I saw pearl onions in the preparation and it reminded me of my mother's frozen peas and pearl onions when I was a kid. But I was brave on a recent dining experience, and while chicken can be boring this entree was amazing, exceeding all expectations. Tender and juicy chicken is presented, braised in red wine along with trumpet mushrooms, haricot blanc and the aforementioned pearl onions. Even the onions were terrific. Great job, chef. Sorry, mom.
Bread service is extra. They source from Theo's Brothers Bakery, the best bakery in the area, so while charging extra for bread is sadly on trend now, at least the small baguette you get here is top notch.
Pro tip. Order the Moules appetizer (which is classic and terrific) and complimentary bread comes to help mop up the brothy goodness.
For Miss M the best thing on the menu is the crème brûlée done in a bananas foster kind of way. She said it's the best she's ever had, and that says a lot coming from her.
Service is just ok. They seem a little understaffed for a restaurant that's trying to be an experience, but the food makes up for the service. The service, however, pushes L'Antoinette towards a more casual experience rather than sophisticated one.
Overall, Resto L'Antoinette is a great addition to the downtown Crabapple dining scene. It's good enough for a sexy weekend date night, but casual enough for a Tuesday evening. I wish them much success!
