Matthew S.
Yelp
Despite being open for only two and a half months, Salt Hank's has quickly risen as a top contender for the best roast beef sandwich in New York City.
Sorry, it is a French Dip.
Roast beef sandwiches are a staple in New York City. I have tried three of the most legendary ones in Roll-N-Roaster, Brennan and Carr, and John's Deli. There is also ones like Lioni and Defonte's, but those do not count as they focus more on other kinds of sandwiches, but the first three I mentioned specialize in roast beef; that is what I am going to focus on in this review.
Located only a short walk from the Christopher St station on the 1 train in the West Village, this tiny restaurant already has throngs of people waiting in line for lunch to get their hands on one of these French Dip. I got there at around noon, and from the time I entered the line to the time I left it, it took me approximately 40 minutes. It helped that I ordered for takeout, because to eat in takes longer. A young woman kept coming outside and asked if you are eating in or taking out. Eat-ins stay in the line. Takeouts get brought to another line, where it is much faster. It truly is.
When you get inside you see the interior feels like something out of the 1950's with the marble-style seating and the bright lighting. The menu is fairly thin in offerings, just French Dip and shoestring fries (not really fries, more or less just thin potato chips), and a small offering of drinks. A combo costs roughly $35, but it comes with a French Dip, chips, and a drink. Try not to get sticker shock when you order.
While I was waiting for my order, I observed two people eating their food outside. The way they described it to me was, "French Onion soup in the form of a sandwich". As somebody who has eaten plenty of French Onion soup, that got me excited. I thought of the roast beef as the meat, the bread as the crouton base, the cheese, as well, the cheese. The au jus makes a perfect broth. For a boss move, I was told to get the chips and add them to the French Dip for an exceptional crunch flavor, and some extra savoriness.
I expected it to be dense, much like the ones from John's Deli. It is anything but dense. The meat is tender, with massive flavor, so much so that I could not put it down. I even pulled a George Costanza and double dipped a bit (sorry everybody, I am NOT a double dipper under normal circumstances!). The chips are okay, but I had to do it for a first time. It really is a delicious French Dip. I could only imagine if I had doused this in the au jus instead of dipping it in the au jus a la Brennan & Carr style. That would be true indulgence. I restrained and stuck with the dipping. The smell from the bag lingered after I finished. No charge for that!
The wait is worth it. Do yourself a favor, save yourself the time and order it to go if you can. It will likely hold up wherever you have to go.
I hope this sandwich shop holds up as well. Sorry, I mean French Dip shop.