Deb H.
Yelp
Sea Watch on the ocean, 6002 N. Ocean Blvd. Fort Lauderdale. In business for 50 years (yes, 50!) Sea Watch isn't trendy, but it's one of those rare oceanfront restaurants where the food outshines the panoramic view.
There was not one misstep during my visit last night, but for those of you who don't feel like reading the details, here's my 3-word review:
Old school perfection
90% of the time, I choose bar seating over table seating when I am dining out. I do that because I like to linger over a cocktail or a glass of wine before I even think about ordering food. If I do that in the dining room, I know that I am inhibiting the ability of the restaurant to turn that table over as quickly as they'd like.
The upstairs bar at Sea Watch is a classic. No, the bar is not directly located in front of the windows, but there is a great view of the crashing waves from most of the seats, due to the elevated location of the bar and the bluff on which the restaurant is situated.
Unlike so many restaurants these days, Sea Watch understands the power of a solid, value-packed happy hour. With 10 cocktails at $7-$8 and 6 glasses of wine weighing in at $6 each (with the same hefty pours as the $12-$16 glasses of wine on the regular menu), it's a true bargain. The happy hour wine is Canyon Road and while not my favorite Chardonnay by a long shot, how am I going to pass on $6 wine?! Full disclosure-I can easily drink copious amounts of inexpensive white wine, but I cannot stomach even one sip of cheapo red wine.
We started off with perfectly tart, but balanced, Lemon Drop martinis, foregoing the sticky sweet, sugared rim that is typically considered part of the drink. The sun had not set at that point and the ocean waves were being whipped by a strong wind, so the white caps were impressive and truly contributed to the atmosphere.
I love Sea Watch's take on lobster bisque, so of course we ordered 2 bowls. Unlike some of the heavy renditions offered at some fine dining establishments, it more closely resembles the lobster bisque at a little shack in Falmouth, MA that we used to get when a job sent me to live on Cape Cod 25+ years ago. Sea Watch's version is velvety but not heavy. The lobster flavor is pronounced, and I love it because there are no huge, tough chunks of lobster weighing it down (at far too many restaurants, lobster chunks in bisque tend to be cooked too long and are tough). Instead, there are plenty of smaller pieces. At a mere $10 a bowl, it's a great choice.
We switched over to chardonnay at that point and agonized over the menu. It's very traditional on one hand, but also offers some interesting takes on popular seafood preparations. For instance, they do not offer the typical fried shrimp platter. Instead, they offer a shrimp tempura entrée served with mandarin peanut slaw. A couple sitting a few seats from us shared it and they proclaimed it was great, with plenty of crunch and was not over-battered. It was a huge portion and while I am not a fried shrimp aficionado, I filed it away for future reference.
My husband chose the bouillabaisse, which was quite literally, a vat of seafood swimming in a spicy, addictive tomato-based broth, with a hint of the traditional Pernod. It was chocked full of fish, shrimp, scallops, lobster tail split into two pieces and calamari. I would be remiss if I did not point out that calamari is not a traditional inclusion in bouillabaisse. I hate calamari, but my husband likes it and said it was tender. The most remarkable thing about the dish was how perfectly everything was cooked. Nothing was overcooked and the texture was perfect. I liberally "sampled" the broth, and it was magnificent.
I ordered the broiled seafood medley, as they call it. It's kinda like the Captain's Plate of days gone by. That dish was often the pièce de résistance of any serious seafood restaurant looking to cater to diners with fat wallets. The medley consisted of a generous portion of broiled shrimp, scallops and a lobster tail in a buttery, white wine sauce. Once again, the kitchen outdid themselves and each piece was meltingly tender, yet a little charred from the broiler. I could NEVER replicate this simple dish at home, because I'd be too busy quaffing wine to watch it closely and I'd overcook it. Not so with Sea Watch's chefs! For $41, it was a real treat and surpassed my memories of the dish I often ordered at so many restaurants where it used to be served.
Total tab, before tip: $124.12
It's rare I get a check that small for so much impeccable prepared seafood, but I am not sure I can put a price on getting great service (courtesy of Samantha and Erin holding down the bar), sparkling fresh seafood and an atmosphere that is hard to replicate in the area. Yeah, there are plenty of beach-side restaurants to choose from, but what makes Sea Watch such a special place is that it sits atop a bluff and the ocean, with the crashing waves, making for a memorable meal and transporting experience.