Asuka N.
Yelp
My wife and I made a last-minute call to have dinner here the day before July 4th based on seeing what looked like an amazing meal on a friend's Instagram - so we made the reservation and came in on the early-ish side (around 6 PM) for dinner. Shun is on the second floor at the corner of 53rd and Lexington; just enter the ground level (which has Le Jardinier) and walk straight up the stairs opposite the entrance. The ambiance feels a bit more muted, but that mostly has to do with the fact this place is new and there were maybe 3 or 4 other tables that were occupied the entire time we were dining. The seating, though, does feel more casual despite the (very) upscale tastes in decor; the chairs are pretty wide, and some tables have longer benches / couches on which folks can sit. The service is pretty crisp, with some elements (e.g exactly timing when the tops come off the bowls) not quite honed in yet but not a huge deal (at least to me, personally). Our main waiter was pretty conversational and gave us some insights, as well as asked for our thoughts on the food...definitely a very good service experience.
The theme of the restaurant is French food with a Japanese flair for preparation, and it's easy to say that on almost all notes, Shun succeeds in delivering a fabulous dining experience, not just from the taste and quality of the food (which is exemplary) but from a presentation standpoint as well. Perhaps it's easy to say that you can envision this being a Michelin-starred spot down the road - and not just because the price point - but everything tends to fire on all cylinders. You can go with a 3- or 4-course tasting, where you choose your plates, but we decided to go with the chef's tasting and be treated. Unlike other restaurants with a similar format, there's no extra amuse-bouche to start or desserts handed out at the end: what you see on the paper is all you are going to get, and for me, who sometimes dreads wondering how many extra bites I am going to have to put away, this was a nice change of pace. Up first was the corn veloute, which was probably the best corn soup I've had anywhere - chilled, with a small hint of undertone from the chile oil and some crackers to cut through the smoothness of it. The king crab is exceptionally fresh (I only wish we got more!), but it's paired off nicely with a bunch of radish, giving it a very clean, late spring/early summer flavor profile. The scallop dish is excellent - bathed in a white wine cream foam and served with asparagus, it's served with morel mushrooms to really add an earthy, pungent dash to each bite. The uni course is simply a decadent take on chawanmushi, where the custard is cooked in lobster broth, adding to the rich flavor of the dish, and the fennel foam adds a nice, earthbound touch to a dish that tastes very much of the sea.
The mains, surprisingly enough, were the only courses I saw any real drawbacks to. The cod is served in a caviar cream sauce - that, of course, was rich and creamy with pops of saltiness from the caviar - but the cod itself was either not cooked all that well or is simply the wrong type of fish for this dish...it had a rubbery consistency to it and failed to really absorb any of the cream into it. I suspect a flakier white fish would probably do the trick better. As for the wagyu ribcaps, the meat is absolutely divine, and I could eat more of it beyond the couple of strips that were served. The veggies (some carrots and broccolini) were good accompaniments, but while I did not mind the black garlic sauce, it was far too strong for the meat and concealed the beef's natural flavors. If anything, it reminded me of what too many Asian fusion restaurants do - they either put too much sauce on their plates (not the issue here - you only have 6 'dots' dropped on), or they make the flavors far too rich, and that's the issue with the garlic sauce...it overpowers the wagyu, which doesn't really require any additional flavoring. Dessert was a typical layout, with a fresh melon sorbet to cleanse the palate, followed by the 'main' dessert (in this case, a cream-filled meringue dish known as a 'vacherin') which was presented elegantly and was a fine balance of sugary, sweet, crunchy (from the meringue) and tart. We finished up with a couple of chocolate bites, which are made in-house but that I could have mistaken for coming from Gabriel Kreuther - the techique and mouthfeel are very similar.
Overall, Shun is an excellent addition to an NYC dining scene that can sometimes feel a bit stale and not do anything new. There's more than the fair share of French restaurants in town, but utilizing technique that has been honed in Japan turns the experience into something more accessible, lighter on the stomach, and very pleasing tastes. It's pricey for sure - $225/person for the tasting - so it won't be a frequent spot to visit, but I cannot wait to come back and try the menu out once the season turns and the menu changes.