Michael S.
Yelp
Once we're inside the small shop, we put ourselves into the hands of Hiroshi and he swiftly recommended us what to try as first-timers. We made and paid our orders on a vending machine that disperse the order tickets for us to hand to the chefs. As we getting to know each other and waiting to "crush" a bowl of ramen as Hiroshi says, I can't help but notice that the way the 2 chefs prepare a bowl of Ramen is like an intricate and ritualistic dance of a respected professional artistry. They seamlessly worked with each other like they've done it way pass the 10,000 hours of Mastery. Each steps is precise and timed, and each movement has a purpose to advance the process of putting their best work into a bowl. The Ramen chefs work with their heart and soul but with ease, that is something you can't teach or replicate.
When the Shoyu Ramen was put in front of me, I was completely ready to finally try my first bowl of Ramen in Japan. I asked Hiroshi, what should I do first. Hiroshi pointed to an opening on the bowl, where there is less noodle showing and not covered by any toppings, just perfect to scoop a spoonful, and said "try the soup first." I transported a spoonful of clear broth with a film of oil to my mouth and sampled it. Rich, complex, savory, and a very slight hint of Truffle, wow... Temperature is not super hot, but it's hot enough to enjoy the whole bowl from start to the finish.
"What should I do next?"
"The Noodle"
The noodle is distinctly different from everything I've tried in America. Noodle is al dente at the core, but the outer surface is softer and smoother. When I saw how Hiroshi expertly and happily slurped his noodles in strong inhale, I guessed that the smooth surface is very conducive for easy slurping, but once you have the noodles in the mouth, you want the right firmness for more enjoyable chewing.
"Slurp it," Hiroshi suggested. I eagerly tried, thinking that I got this, but my inhale didn't have enough force to pull the noodles all the way up and some even get into my throat. "Rookie!" my mentor teased me and laughed. I really like how Hiroshi has this open and lively laughter that spread joy to his surrounding. I need to work on my slurping!
"The toppings." Only after tasting the all important broth and noodles, that attention is paid to the toppings. The Charsiu has a medium firmness, with a good blend of fat and meat. Every bite is enjoyable, but I also get the sense that the reason for its existence on the bowl, like other toppings, is just to serve its masters, the broth and noodles, albeit having a higher rank.
There is no comparison when it comes to the Ajitama, a whole marinated egg with soft center yolk. As you travelers know, eggs taste better almost anywhere outside of the US. The bright orange yolk looks great and tastes fantastic.
There is nothing left in my bowl when I'm finished with it. I think back to all the other Ramen I had before in the States and naturally draw some comparisons. I will leave those thoughts to myself, or maybe in personal friendly discussions. At least now I have some basis and background knowledge to gauge Ramen shops that are available in America.
What I want to simply share is that a good bowl of Ramen is dependent on so many intricate factors. Hiroshi told me that the ingredients are very important. It's very hard to produce a good bowl of Ramen if the right ingredients cannot be sourced.
Training of the chefs too is vital. You cannot just grab someone who doesn't have any experience, train them for 2 weeks, and expect them to produce top quality Ramen.
The most indescribably factor to me in making of great bowl of Ramen is the word "Harmony". All the elements have to come together perfectly without any part lacking or overpowering. I find "Harmony" in that simple yet the most difficult bowl of Ramen to produce. All the factors come together and cooperatively produce a great bowl of Ramen. I think it's very difficult for Western to have the same reverence, respect, love and patience, Japanese has for Ramen; thus, it's hard to find a comparable bowl great Ramen in the Western world.
Hiroshi has a great app for people to download that has ratings and locations for Ramen shops his team has rated in Tokyo. The link is available on their company site www.ramenbeast.com. It's filled with useful Ramen related tips and information, and past 10 years of sampling Ramen shops around Tokyo. It also has a more detailed review of Hototogisu and its exceptional owner Yamamoto-san, the Ramen shop we went to. All these invaluable resources are free of charge because it's a labor of love from people who love Ramen and eat them daily.