Jea Kim
Google
A safe but solid pivot from Garrett Harker.
“Standard Italian.” This time, Harker didn’t aim for bold or creative. After a few months experimenting with the seafood/oyster bar concept at All That Fish Oyster, it seems he’s settled on Boston’s tried-and-true formula for success: an Italian restaurant with solid pasta and good vibes. At first, I thought location played a role, but really, as long as it isn’t another North End clone, it gets a spotlight. Personally, I preferred his first concept, but shame he had to pivot to something more generic.
Compared to the oyster bar, the menu here felt uninspired. There were a few playful snacks designed to pair with cocktails and wine, like the parm-onion dip and oysters, but little in the way of creativity or inventive dishes. Still, my favorite from the small plates was the parm-onion dip with trout roe. The oysters, which came free with our martini (a happy hour special before 6:30?), were served with a ginger-apple mignonette, but its intense peppery aftertaste made it feel less refreshing. The roasted clam had an overwhelming ocean aroma, and the pancetta was so tough I initially thought I’d bitten into a shell. The tripe was tender, but the chickpeas in the broth were undercooked, which threw off the texture.
The entrées were better. Harker took particular pride in the lasagna, and it delivered. Arguably on par with the one at MIDA (my favorite in Boston). The Porchetta was another one of my favorites. Perfectly crispy skin—not too hard, but easy to bite through. The caramelized onion & apple (?) sauce and spicy harissa balanced the pork fat. The bucatini was solid, with a perfect al dente bite, though the diavolo sauce lacked intensity—a bit more reduction would have amped up the tanginess and heat.
Overall, a solid meal. Definitely coming back for the vibes and without a doubt, for that lasagna and porchetta.