Clark H.
Yelp
A little slice of Greece tucked away in Richmond, Stella's embodies authentic Greek cuisine. The decor features earthenware vases, old Greek films playing on the far wall, and traditional Grecian music, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of an old-world restaurant in Greece. Even the entire wine selection, from which we chose a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Viognier/Sangiovese blend, originated from Greece. The Cabernet Sauvignon was medium-bodied and less dry than a typical Napa Cab, while the Viognier/Sangiovese blend was unlike any wine I've ever tasted. Our server was very knowledgeable about the varieties of Greek wine they offered and gave us excellent recommendations.
For food, we ordered the Feta Phyllo, the Saganaki, Pastichiatho, and Braised Lamb Shank. The Feta Phyllo was wrapped in delicate layers of phyllo, baked, and topped with honey, fresh lemon, and toasted sesame. Baked to a golden crisp, this dish balanced sweet, savory, salty, and nutty flavors beautifully. The Saganaki, flaming Kefalograviera cheese served with pita, was melty and salty, with an elevated flair from the flaming alcohol when brought to the table. Both appetizers were expertly made and left me eager to try more from the extensive menu. One could have an entire meal solely composed of the shareables, and it would be exceptional.
As for our mains, the Pastichiatho was a delightful take on spaghetti with meat sauce, distinguished by a touch of nutmeg that set it apart from its Italian counterpart. The Braised Lamb Shank, however, was extraordinary and in a league of its own. The shank was fall-off-the-bone tender with a succulent, rich flavor that wasn't overly gamey, and the brown butter tomato-based sauce was infused with all the richness and meaty essence of the lamb. The bucatini served with the lamb was perfectly al dente and served as the ideal vessel for the rich sauce and decadent lamb. The portions were generous, leaving us thoroughly satisfied by the end of the meal.
My only regret was not being able to try everything on the menu, especially the desserts, which are a must-order for our next visit to Stella's.