The Office of Mr. Moto

"When you feel like you’ve seen, done, and eaten all that NYC’s overwhelming omakase scene can offer, go to The Office of Mr. Moto. This St. Marks speakeasy is filled with eclectic Japanese antiques and requires you to decode an email before your visit. The 21-course meal ($215) is focused on hyper-seasonal ingredients flown in daily from Japan, so expect pieces like shirako, or rare red gurnard that you don’t get at other sushi spots in this price range. Stop by the lounge for a drink after your dinner and listen to the vintage player piano." - bryan kim, neha talreja, hannah albertine, molly fitzpatrick

"This “sushi speakeasy” requires you to decode an email before you can enter the East Village restaurant. That might sound annoying, but we promise it's not. (And it’s really easy). This omakase is based around a loose plot in which you've been invited by the eccentric and reclusive Mr. Moto to dine amongst his collection of Japanese antiques. But the lightly themed dinner theater isn’t there to distract from any flaws. Mr. Moto hosts one of the best omakases in Manhattan. The 21-course meal ($215) is focused on hyper-seasonal ingredients, so expect pieces like shirako, or red gurnard, which you usually won’t find at other spots in this price range. Stop by the lounge for a drink after dinner and listen to the vintage player piano." - bryan kim, neha talreja, hannah albertine, will hartman

"Verdict: The Office of Mr. Moto isn't the city's first sushi speakeasy, and it isn't even the first sushi speakeasy in the East Village. But this restaurant still feels special. You have to solve a riddle in order to get in, and the space is decorated with various antiques, like one of the first Japanese pay phones. A meal here costs $195 and includes 21 courses. Expect things like gizzard shad with yuzu kosho and baby cuttlefish with a bit of yuzu juice. How To Get In: This place is already booked through January, but there's a waitlist you can put your name on. New reservations are released at 10am on the first of every month for the entire following month, so set a reminder for January 1st if you want to eat here in February. Reservations are prepaid, and they sell out quickly. The Office of Mr. Moto is not currently accepting walk-ins." - Bryan Kim

"Some restaurants have stories; others create them. Meet The Office of Mr. Moto, a downtown spot that endeavors to bring history alive. Inspired by the late 1800s expedition of Commodore Perry, the restaurant is designed to mimic the worldly office of Mr. Moto, a fictionalized character who could have been aboard. The dining experience begins with an electronic letter containing a coded cipher to gain entry to the restaurant. It's all a bit mysterious, though their omakase is far from a secret. From black throat sea perch and red Gurnard to omakase standards like shima aji, their fish selection is impressive. Do take a drink to the downstairs library after dinner to continue the imaginative experience." - Michelin Inspector

"Mr. Moto was a gourmand and art connoisseur. In 1853, he accompanied Commodore Mathew Perry on a voyage to Japan. He took notes on gastronomy and collected artifacts. He also, definitely, did not exist. The Office of Mr. Moto provides that elaborate backstory, and we get it. Every restaurant has a gimmick. At , it’s chefs who tell you to “enjoy your fucking food,” and at , it’s agnolotti that occasionally sells out, despite no interruptions to the agnolotti supply chain. The gimmick at this -style East Village spot, hidden behind an unmarked entrance with a secret keypad, is more elaborate than most—but it doesn’t play a huge role in the actual dining experience. Once you settle in for your $195, 21-course meal, you’ll find that this is just a pleasant, friendly, upper-tier omakase place that provides good value and a few curveballs, the first of which is getting in the door. Due to Mr. Moto’s size—a few tables and a short chef’s counter—and dedication to the bit, reservations are claimed as soon as they're released online. If you manage to snag one (your best bet is the waitlist), you’ll then need to decipher a cryptic email with a hidden passcode. Depending on how many seasons of Sherlock you've finished, this could take between one and five minutes. The pageantry is fun, and it’s what sets this place apart, but once you listen to a host’s solemn recap of Mr. Moto’s life and achievements, the theater abruptly ends. After that, you’ll find yourself in a mellow little room with antique knickknacks and a twinkling soundtrack—compliments of a player piano hidden in a waiting room down below—as you begin a marathon of a meal with a few interesting highlights and enough sheer volume to guarantee a good time. Slightly undersized and lightly dressed nigiri account for 15 of the 21 courses, and they’re what you’ll remember best. The fish here changes frequently, but you can expect a few uncommon finds, in addition to plenty of usual suspects. You’ll get your uni, toro, and torched kinmedai, but also things like fatty blackthroat seaperch and baby cuttlefish with a bouncy, creamy texture that you’ll chase for days afterward, chewing on gummy sharks and hair ties to recapture the feeling. The staff will offer to add more rice to your pieces if you want more food, but that’s not how you want to fill up. Minimally seasoned and not quite warm, the rice is the weakest link of the meal. If you obsess over little details like that, take your $195 elsewhere. Mr. Moto is a special-occasion restaurant for people who like dragging their friends to escape rooms just as much as they enjoy consuming caviar-topped tuna. The gimmick wears off quick, but that's probably for the best. Thinly sliced cuttlefish is significantly more compelling than any fictional backstory. " - Bryan Kim