Chris S.
Yelp
The Roast Grill Hot Wieners has 32 things on its menu: soda, beer, 1 hot dog, 2 hot dogs, 3 hot dogs, 4 hot dogs, 5 hot dogs... all the way up to 30 hot dogs. Actually, sometimes there are more items when dessert is also available.
Dogs are $2.50 each and can come with Sauer's brand yellow mustard, sweet white Texas onions, homemade chilli, and for a quarter more - slaw. You should without a doubt get them "burned and all-the-way". +1 star for not having ketchup available. Only children and barbarians put ketchup on hotdogs. The sour of the mustard, the sulfur of the cabbage and onion, the sweetness of the onion, and the chilli really compliment the charred hot dog and perfectly steamed bun.
No French fries. No chips. Nothing else. It's like those specialty boutiques in Europe that do one thing and do it really well, but this one just happens to specialize in America's national dish.
George and Mary Charles opened the icon in its current location in 1940. Current owner/operator is their grandson George Poniros. George is approaching 60 years old and has been slinging dogs for the past quarter century along with mother Freeda, so don't expect him to be Mr. Sunshine on your first visit. But he is an earnest man slinging honest dogs, politely and seriously.
Poniros cooks dogs the old fashioned way - on a flat two burner flat iron grill graduating uncooked dogs from right to left with nicely charred ones on the far left.
I asked Ms. Freeda what dogs she uses. She said "Swift out of Michigan, or they used to be called that before they were bought out by that Midwestern company. They are 90% beef." As recently as 2011, Poniros was quoted in an interview saying that they used Swift Premium.
I did some research. Swift only has a single factory in Michigan and it doesn't make hot dogs, which is understandable because Michigan has the country's toughest sausage laws. This means that these are no longer Swift Premium, which is a good thing because these are not mass market hot dogs. These are boutique dogs.
These wieners are "Coney Island" style, which means they have a heritage of being all beef in order to be Kosher. However, these have 10% other meat, which tastes like pork, to give it better flavor. Hence, these dogs will taste closer to a Hebrew National hot dog than the more common predominantly pork-based wiener. Secondly, these dogs char nicely, so they clearly have a natural casing. However, they don't have a heavy snap, which is caused when using thicker hog casings used in sausages. My guess is that these are thinner lamb casings. A lot of folks like the satisfying snap of hog casings, but hog casings can get chewy/stringy and would be too much burned mass when charring.
These sausages are also lighter colored rather than redder, which is caused by less paprika in the recipe - which means they are less spicy compared to a Carolina Red. My wild guess is that these folks are using Koegel's Vienna wieners. No, there are no retail distributors of Koegel's in North Carolina, so you are SOL if you want to DIY.
But the flavor doesn't really lean on the dog - it's a balance of the whole all-the-way package. Poniros' chilli tastes great. It also the right consistency, which is purposely more runny compared to the stand-alone chilli you eat out of a bowl.
And as for the worn-in anachronistic site, I love it. And apparently, many other people love it too, because it is almost always busy to get one of the 12 stools. It is hard to describe the feeling I got from sitting in there. It didn't feel trashy and old. It felt nostalgic. It felt historic. It felt like the type of place a father might bring his son, share four alltheways and 2 cold Cokes in glass bottles and have it leave an comfortable imprint of your family's history, just like countless families before yours.